tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-41338353922364426742024-02-18T23:03:15.347-08:00Fruits and Vegetables World Fruits and Vegetables Enhance Your LifeCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.comBlogger429125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-67343466102841150782022-05-14T00:49:00.005-07:002022-05-14T00:49:26.067-07:00Almonds - Potent Brain Food <p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="text-align: justify;">Aside from being a
convenient snack, almonds are potent brain food for three reasons. First, the
skins of almonds have been shown to provide a prebiotic effect, which as you
may recall is important for nurturing the mass of bacteria in your large
intestine. Researchers fed people almond skins or whole almonds and saw that
they both increased populations of beneficial species while reducing pathogenic
ones. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="text-align: justify;">Second, almonds are a rich source of polyphenols — plant defense
compounds that provide an antioxidant effect to both you and your gut bacteria.
Almonds are a powerful source of fat-soluble antioxidant vitamin E. Vitamin E
protects synaptic membranes from oxidation, thus supporting neuroplasticity. Scientists
have noted a link between decreasing serum levels of vitamin E and poorer
memory performance in older individuals. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="text-align: justify;">A 2013 trial, published in the Journal
of the American Medical Association, even found that high doses of vitamin E
led to a significantly slower decline in patients with Alzheimer’s disease (worth
up to six months of bought time). Almonds do contain substantial amounts of
polyunsaturated fat, which as you recall is a fat that is easily oxidized. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="text-align: justify;">This
is why I prefer to consume almonds, and all nuts, raw. However, for those who
prefer roasted nuts, it may provide comfort to know that the fat in almonds
remains relatively protected through the roasting process, a sign that the nuts
also contain a high amount of antioxidants. Just be sure to go for dry roasted
nuts, as “roasted” almost always means that they’ve actually been deep-fried in
poor-quality vegetable oil! </span></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="text-align: justify;">How to use: Eat raw as a snack, combine with some
dark chocolate and berries for a nice “trail mix,” or throw in a salad. Just be
mindful that because of their fat content, nuts contain a lot of calories,
which can add up fast. Try to stick to a handful or two a day, tops. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="text-align: justify;">Pro tip:
All nuts are healthy. While almonds are a great go-to choice, macadamias,
Brazil nuts, and pistachios are equally excellent options. Pistachios contain
more lutein and zeaxanthin (two carotenoids that can boost brain speed) than
any other nut. They also contain resveratrol, a powerful antioxidant that has
been shown to protect and enhance memory function.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-75575253652363602512022-05-09T22:03:00.007-07:002022-05-09T22:03:30.386-07:00Pumpkin and squash<p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Pumpkin and squash were an important part of the diet of many Native American tribes, who introduced them to the early European settlers. In North America, squash and pumpkin (especially in the form of pumpkin pie) are still served as part of the traditional Thanksgiving meal. These vegetables are not only delicious but are also filling, inexpensive, high-energy foods. As you might expect from their wonderful deep orange hue, pumpkins and squashes are full of beta-carotene, the vitamin A precursor that helps protect us against cancer, heart troubles, and respiratory disease. In population studies, people eating plenty of pumpkins, or other orange-yellow members of the squash family, run a lower risk of developing lung cancer.</span></p>CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-52110982323533547372021-05-30T03:28:00.000-07:002021-05-30T03:28:02.558-07:00Figs and Human Relationship<p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"> <span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">Our relationship to figs, though ancient by human standards, is relatively new from the fig’s point of view. Figs have been good to us, providing food and medicine, shade and shelter, raiment, and even metaphysical inspiration. Figs are reputed to be the most frequently mentioned fruit in the Bible (Flaishman et al. 2008), and an important element of all mythologies and religions of the Mediterranean and Middle East. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0s7Ijcl4dYbAEN2W4_6LwROBSZ15d5fofNyJBkVOLZTFA6ctLnejsZMO15qrmGcC0NxUURON-oGfrZk6rDWmnVSsEetFtTEjoH7HnYSdt6XRGZrXoUg_ZxmOUF1w1i1dkLUXfVqb3Gxk/s1280/figs-shutterstock_728301952.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1280" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0s7Ijcl4dYbAEN2W4_6LwROBSZ15d5fofNyJBkVOLZTFA6ctLnejsZMO15qrmGcC0NxUURON-oGfrZk6rDWmnVSsEetFtTEjoH7HnYSdt6XRGZrXoUg_ZxmOUF1w1i1dkLUXfVqb3Gxk/w640-h400/figs-shutterstock_728301952.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;">The ease with which cuttings of fig trees can be transported and root, when introduced into soil and water, has enabled us to propagate figs for our own use thousands of years before we were able to domesticate grains. For our part, we have also served the fig, helping it to colonize lands far distant from those of its origins. We have succeeded in establishing figs, especially the edible Ficus carica and the decorative F. benjamina, in countries of many northern climates, from New England to Northern Europe (Condit 1947). </span><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">We have played an impressive role in figs’ evolution, as figs have also figured prominently in our own evolution. Along the way, there have been fits and starts. For the figs, continents have split off from other continents, and fig wasps have evolved alongside them to create their unique and distinctive environmentally linked system of reproduction. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">We humans have taken figs to new heights of glory, and have deeply appreciated their virtues and integrated them into our culture. Now, at the threshold of suffering, the consequences of our carelessness with our own instruments of environmental change, we may again turn fig-ward for a leaf or two to cover our shame, to absorb the toxins of our greed and stupidity. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">This field is called phytoremediation, and the Ficus species are employed in both diagnostic and “therapeutic” functions to “heal” the environmentally ravaged planet. Let us review now briefly some of the work in each of these major areas.<br /></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqJCpaFPAkdJZXtNZUpketK87WTBxurqW_D2x9SMuNhyphenhyphenwUUP8btbZlEEYpTuvxneIuiNlVm6jRABt7h3f-kY3ZAY6uRjyRkKmaBhDU5Rc_7pdLiUu7TK7Mq2EFtFDDNQqhreaROCKzjcs/s1200/5f5577c80d3b8.image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="794" data-original-width="1200" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqJCpaFPAkdJZXtNZUpketK87WTBxurqW_D2x9SMuNhyphenhyphenwUUP8btbZlEEYpTuvxneIuiNlVm6jRABt7h3f-kY3ZAY6uRjyRkKmaBhDU5Rc_7pdLiUu7TK7Mq2EFtFDDNQqhreaROCKzjcs/w640-h424/5f5577c80d3b8.image.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p></p>CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-55174710839671629752020-03-03T05:49:00.003-08:002020-03-03T05:51:34.552-08:00How to Grow Yellow Yams?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Botany</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Some authorities consider yellow yams to be a variety of D. rotundata. The edible portion is the tuber, which is borne singly and can weigh up to 10 kg. But more usually are within the range 500–2 kg. They have brown skin and yellow flesh.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As far as harvesting there is no clear dormancy period, but the vines die back about 12 months after planting and then regrowth. At this time the vines may be cut off and the tubers may be harvested and dug from the ground. Jamaica is a major producer and there they are harvested by digging up the tuber while the vine is still attached. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The top of the tuber, called the head end, is cut off with the vine attached and replanted in the same place. This means that there is a large cut surface on the harvested tuber that is easily infected by microorganisms.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Pest and disease control</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A common way of controlling postharvest diseases is to dip the tubers in a fungicide. However, dichloran treatment was found actually to increase rotting. In Jamaica, benzimidazole fungicides were used for many years. However, during the commercial application, a rot caused by infection with Penicillium sclerotigenum was frequently observed on the treated tubers. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In in vitro tests, this organism was found to be tolerant to benomyl. This tolerance was confirmed in vivo tests, but the organism was highly susceptible to the fungicide imazalil. However, the use of benomyl or imazalil is now not permitted in many importing countries and an alternative method of disease control is needed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Field infestation of yellow yam tubers with parasitic nematodes was shown to increase when they were stored in tropical ambient conditions, resulting in areas of necrotic tissues. However, when they were stored at 13°C there was no increase in nematode population in the tubers and no increase in necrosis.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Curing</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Exposure of the tubers to 35–40°C and 95–100% r.h. for 24 hours initiates the curing process and controls storage rots. This treatment could well replace chemical fungicides for postharvest disease control. See the section on D. rotundata for details of the process.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In ventilated storage in ambient conditions of 24–31°C and 52–68% r.h., tubers lost 41% in weight after 4 months. The storage period was too long and should probably be confined to a maximum of 1 month. Refrigerated storage recommendations are as follows:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">• 13°C and 95% r.h. for less than 4 months with 29% weight loss and internal necrosis.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">• 16°C and 80% r.h. for 60 days (Tindall 1983).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At tropical temperatures, tubers sprouted about 4 weeks after harvesting. The most popular variety of yellow yam in Jamaica is called Roundleaf and that began to sprout about 90 days after harvest compared with the variety Common that sprouted after about 50 days. This study was at ambient temperatures of 25–34°C and 64–92% r.h.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A proprietary potato sprout suppressant containing CIPC and IPC in a dust formulation had no effect on sprouting. Low-temperature storage can control sprouting. No sprouting occurred on any tubers at 13°C during 5 months of storage, but there was a chilling injury at temperatures below 15°C when stored for over 1 month, so this method was not appropriate.</span></div>
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-2106620170923422882020-02-19T06:34:00.000-08:002020-02-19T06:34:03.598-08:00How to Grow Best Pears?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<strong style="box-sizing: border-box;"><em style="box-sizing: border-box;">How to Grow Pears?</em></strong></h2>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Pears grow on sturdy, deep-rooted trees that can live and bear for as long as seventy-five years. They will take less cold than apples but more than peaches, and often have fewer pest and disease problems than either. They are not especially rich in vitamins, but no matter. Get your vitamins A and C from the tomato crop and enjoy sweet, juicy home-grown pears for the sheer joy of it.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">The pear’s brief, early bloom can result in the flowers’ being killed in cold areas, and also can lead to insufficient pollination. Even if the flowers appear when it is warm enough for bees to be active, they are not as fragrant as those of other fruits, and bees may pass them by.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Pear trees are not self-fertile either, though most varieties will cross-pollinate each other well. (The combination of ‘Bartlett’ and ‘Seckel,’ which are incompatible, is the notable exception.) Most do badly in very warm zones since they need winter chilling to break dormancy.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Pears are upright-growing, usually reaching at least 25 feet. Dwarfs can be grown successfully, usually on quince rootstocks SITE Plant pear trees in a sunny spot except in climates where the sun is very strong. Protect them from winds that are cold or salt-laden.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">In the cold temperature planting on a northern or eastern slope will assist to forestall too-early bloom. It is very imperative to give pears good air circulation to ward off fire blight, the most troublesome pear disease. Plant standard-sized varieties 20-25 feet apart, dwarf ones 12-15.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">SOIL</strong></em></h2>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Pears are deep-rooted and need deep soil. They will do better in a heavy soil than a light one since they need plenty of soil moisture. (Sandy soils also warm up too quickly in spring, producing frost-vulnerable early bloom.)</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Pears growing in dry soil will bear pretty flowers and then drop unripe fruit all over the ground. On the other hand, too- rich soil will make them more susceptible to fire blight and may produce rapid growth that splits the bark. The best pH is about 6.5, but a wide range is tolerable.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">PLANTING</strong></em></h2>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Plant while dormant in fall in frost-free areas, otherwise in early spring. Buy one-year-old whips and cut back to 3 or 3% feet. Set them out at the same height at which they grew in the nursery, but with dwarf varieties make sure the graft is several inches above the soil so the tree won’t root above the graft.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">At planting time dig in organic matter such as peat and perhaps some bone meal, but no nitrogenous fertilizer. You have a vigorous tree and can kill it with too much kindness.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">GROWING</strong></em></h2>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">As the trees are growing, you can top-dress them lightly with compost or whatever it takes to keep leaf color a healthy green and the tree productive- but you may not need to feed at all. It is more important to make sure the tree has plenty of moisture, especially at blossom time and when the fruit is ripening.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Moreover, heavy mulch not only will conserve moisture but also may assist to forestall too-early flowering. You may also grow grass around the tree to put back flowering and contain growth. But beware heavy applications of lawn fertilizer. Pear trees are pruned very much the same way as apple trees, but lightly so as to avoid producing vigorous new growth that will be susceptible to blight.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Like apples, they bear for many years on long-lived spurs. It is, however, a good idea to keep the top pruned low while the tree is young so it will grow too tall to pick. Cutting it later is harder to do and will in blight. Old trees can be renewed in the same way as apples. Thinning will befit the tree and the crop, though are notorious self-thinners, often dropping half their crop in early or midsummer.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">PESTS AND DISEASES</strong></em></h2>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">The biggest pear plague is fire blight, a bacterial disease that blackens the leaves and twigs so they look burned. They may also curl over in a “shepherd’s crook” shape. Cankers (sunken places) can be seen at the base of the blackened parts.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">The disease is carried by insects that enter the flowers in spring and is best prevented by growing resistant varieties. Also, observe the cautions mentioned above. If your trees still get fire blight, prune out the affected shoots at least several inches below the damage.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Sterilizing your clippers in a chlorine solution between cuts and destroying the debris by burning or burying it. Badly damaged trees may need to be destroyed. There are antibiotic sprays, best administered by a professional, that control fire blight.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Other diseases include brown rot and pear canker, a fungus that produces sunken areas on the twigs. You might have trouble identifying the latter, so take twigs to the Extension Service to see if pear canker is the trouble. If so, just prune it out and improve drainage in the area where the tree grows.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Pear scab produces olive-green spots on the fruit in warm, wet weather; any infected areas should be pruned out and destroyed. Pear psylla, a plant louse, is the most serious insect pest, blackening the leaves and fruit in midsummer because of the sooty mold that grows on the sticky “honeydew,” which the lice secrete.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Dormant-oil sprays, applied in before buds swell, will help to control it; follow this treatment with insecticidal soap spray, as needed later in the season. Aphids, which also secrete honeydew, are also controlled by dormant oil followed by soap.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Even if neither psylla nor aphids do great damage, both can introduce fire blight into the tree. Pears are also injured by the codling moth, and by pear slugs, which are best done in by sprinkling them with lime. So, to avoid pests and disease you should know how to grow pears in a systematic way.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">HARVEST</strong></em></h2>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Pears are best picked before maturity. Left to ripen on the tree they become grainy and can go very quickly from ripe to rotten. Pick when the skins are light green, when the seeds inside are brown (open one pear to check) and when the pears can be severed from the branch easily with an upward-twisting!</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Motion If possible store pears in a dry room where the temperature is just above freezing; they’ll keep this way for several months. Then bring them into a warmer room when you want them to ripen. But handle them carefully at all stages because they are easily nicked and bruised.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Standard trees bear a good crop in about six years, on the average, and dwarfs in three or four. Expect up to five bushels per tree from standards, up to a bushel and a half from dwarfs.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">VARIETIES</strong></em></h2>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Bartlett is the best-known pear, the standard commercial variety that keeps and ships well. The tree is vigorous but prone to blight; fruits are early. “Clapp’s Favorite is the standard late variety, hardier for the north than ‘Bartlett’ but also susceptible to blight. So is the exquisite “Bosc” that wonderful little brown, long-necked pear, and the sumptuous old-world ‘Flemish Beauty.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Less risky is the wonderful old ‘Seckel’ or sugar pear, which is small, brown and very sweet. It grows slowly but vigorously on a compact tree and is quite hardy. (Also try its early version, “Tyson.’) Modern choices include the early and dependable ‘Moonglow,’ or, for canning, ‘Kieffer,’ a big, crisp.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Also, yellow pear that matures fairly is late and keeps very well. Another good bet is Magness,’ a good blight-resistant pear for the south and west that is very sweet, keeps well and grows on a nice, spreading tree. (Grow two additional varieties to ensure pollination.) ‘Orient’ is a good round, green canning pear for the south, also blight-resistant. Also, try the great- keeping ‘Red Anjou’ or the trouble-free ‘Starking Delicious.’</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Western gardeners owe it to themselves to try the ‘Comice’ pear, an old, choice French pear considered the crème de la crème; it bears late, has exquisite flavor and is blight-resistant. They should also grow the Asian pears that are starting to become popular. Huge, crisp pears that are something like apples in texture; these are good keepers and grow on large, self-fertile trees.</em></h5>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Good varieties include “Chojuro’ and “Twentieth Century. The Callery pear (Pyrus calleryana) is an ornamental tree worth noting, especially the variety ‘Bradford (called Bradford pear). It has a nice shape and makes a good street tree, resistant to fire blight. It is covered with white flowers in spring and turns a lovely dark red in fall. The tiny fruits are not edible. so, we hope you would become to know how to grow pears. </em></h5>
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-58599120278427643702020-01-14T07:30:00.002-08:002020-01-14T07:31:22.909-08:00Jack Fruit Facts<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Description</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Jack fruit is well believed to have originated in the mountainous region of the Western Ghats of Indian peninsula. It is supposed to have spread from India to the other tropical countries such as Malaysia, Burma, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Brazil, Jamaica etc.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Jack fruit (Artocarpus heterophyllus) is one of the most important underutilized fruit belonging to the family “Moraceae” and to the genus Artocarpus. That includes evergreen or deciduous trees producing more yield than any other fruit tree species and bears the largest edible fruit.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">But it is regarded as a minor fruit and is often found in regular plantations. This genus comprises about 100 species distributed in the Indo-Malayan region and China. Among the several species of Artocarpus which occur in India, Artocarpus chaplasha, Artocarpus hirsuta and Artocarpus lakoocha are the important timber yielding trees.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The energy of Jack Fruit</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Jack fruit is cheaply available in large quantities during the season. The energy available to humans from jack fruit has been calculated to provide approximately 2 MJ/Kg wet weight of ripe perianth. For this reason, it is commonly referred to as “poor man’s breadfruit”. On account of its fruit size, it ranks first among all the fruits in terms of quantity of edible matter produced per unit area.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Jack Fruit Seedlings</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Jack fruit tolerates a wide variety of soils, provided those are well-drained. However, it prefers deep and well-drained alluvial soil. Jack fruit seedlings start fruiting after eight to ten years, whereas grafts may fruit from three to five years.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The fruit is fully mature but unripe fruits are harvested and the fruit maturity is judged by dull appearance and a dull sound upon tapping. The yield varies from tree to tree and according to age. On average 5-100 fruits of medium size (6-10 Kg) are borne on adult trees.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Life Span and Parts</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The life span of the jack fruit tree for around 80 years. The jack fruit prices depend on size, quantity, type of fruit and season. The fruit constitutes three parts: bulbs (34 per cent), seeds (18 per cent) and rind (48 per cent) respectively. Generally, sweet bulbs are consumed by the people.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The remaining parts such as seeds and rind are usually wasted. Jack fruit seed encased in the soft colored edible pulp and constitute to about 5.1- 12 per cent of the fruit. It is eaten after roasting or boiling. Jack fruit is a highly fibrous fruit and is rich in nutritive value, containing 18.9 g carbohydrates, 0.8 g minerals, 30 IU vitamin-A and 0.25 mg thiamine for every 100 grams.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Nutrient</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Jack fruit has been reported to contain high levels of protein, starch, calcium and thiamine. It is a very good source of potassium and vitamin C. The leaves and stem bark have been used to treat anemia, asthma, dermatitis, diarrhea, cough and as an expectorant.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The fruits, seeds and trunk wood have been described as containing chemical compounds with aphrodisiac properties. Currently, jack fruit seeds are underutilized in both human and animal nutrition due to lack of information on their nutritional potential.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">It is a rich source of complex carbohydrates, dietary fiber, vitamins and minerals like calcium, zinc and phosphorous. They contain lignin, isoflavones, saponins, which are called phytonutrients and their health benefits are wide-ranging from anticancer to antihypertensive, anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-ulcer, etc. Jack fruit seed powder can relieve discomfort due to indigestion. </span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Seeds</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The seed is firm and waxy, oval, oblong or oblong ellipsoid in shape. Each seed is 2-4 x 1-2 cm in size and 2.5-14 g in weight with a coriaceous testa. The testa is thin, leathery, thick, tough, parchment-like and crinkly when dry. The inner seed coat is thin covered with a brownish membrane.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The fleshy cotyledons are very unequal in the size of the other. The endosperm present will be very small. The embryo has a superficial radicle, the basal lobe of the smaller cotyledon being undeveloped. Carbohydrates are the main component of the seed in the form of starch for human consumption.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Moreover, the seeds can be boiled or roasted and used in many culinary preparations. Almost, 25-53 per cent starch aided in the formation of a highly rigid gel. The incorporation of jack fruit seed flour in the manufacture of extruded snacks and vermicelli at varying levels of 30- 50 per cent and incorporation of 40 per cent level gave the best results.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The preparation of value-added product “Puttu” (traditional south Indian dish) from jack fruit seed flour with a combination of rice flour. Although seeds are nutritious, containing protein, carbohydrate, fiber, vitamin, and minerals and provide about 135 Kcal/100g of energy. They are not being exploited commercially by the processing industry since it contains a powerful trypsin inhibitor.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Jack fruit seed protein has a low biological value due to the occurrence of lectin components. Hence considering the above, an attempt was made to identify the pattern of utilization of jack fruit seed, to process seed into flour and utilize this seed flour in selected value-added products.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Jack fruit is an underutilized fruit crop and jack fruit seeds being wasted after the fruit is consumed. These seeds have a great potential as a source of many important nutrients. Jack fruit is available in plenty in various parts of India. After the consumption of the fruit, the seeds are usually wasted. The seeds are highly nutritious and provide around 135 Kcal /100 gm.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Jack Fruit Moisture</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The moisture content of the jack fruit seed was found to be 64.5 %, carbohydrates - 25.8 g, energy -135 Kcal, proteins - 6.6 g, total minerals -1.2 g, iron-1.5 mg, calcium-50 mg, phosphorus-97 mg, fibre-1.5 mg (per100 g of edible portion).</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Value Added Products</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Jack fruit have been relatively safe fruit for different value-added products like jackfruit finger, chips, jackfruit candy, jackfruit halwa, jackfruit flour, jackfruit leather, jackfruit papad, jackfruit pickle, ready-to-serve (RTS) beverages from jack fruit was carried out.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Seed Powders</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Jack fruit seed powders were tested as a substrate to produce pigments by Monascus purpureus grown using solid-state fermentation (SSF). The protein content in the jack fruit bean was 7.81-12.46 %.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Probably the protein content varies from seed to seed and it may also depend on the ripening stage of the seed. The proximate composition of the jack fruit seeds varieties, that they are good sources of carbohydrates, protein, and minerals.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Extraction of Jack Fruit Seed Flour</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">To extract jack fruit seed flour, jack fruit seeds were boiled for 15-20 minutes; water was decanted and cooled in order to remove the seeds and outer skin coat. Seeds were cut into 3-4 pieces dried in sunlight or hot air oven (400C) for 48 hours. Dried seeds were ground into flour sieved and stored.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Isolation of starch</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Production of starch from non-cereal crop sources, has a lot of scope for the industry with respect to value added starch-based products indirectly generating higher employment and saving the country’s foreign exchange. The jack fruit bulbs were separated, and seeds washed thoroughly with water and spermoderm was peeled off.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The peeled seeds were slurried with an equal weight of a 0.5 per cent solution of NaHSO3 in a waring blender and slurry was pressed in cheesecloth to remove seed fibers, rewashed and decanted at 4-50C and then washed with 80 per cent ethanol and dried at 300C for 48 hours and starch yield was 10-15 per cent.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Foaming and Emulsification Capacity</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Foaming capacity of the jack fruit seed flour showed greater foam volume at the initial period 8 ml followed by 7ml at 30 minutes and later at 60 minutes interval. Foam volume decreased further to 5 ml and at 120 minutes foam volume was only 4.5 ml. It was observed that, in case of jack fruit seed starch and corn starch foam did not form at all.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Highest emulsification value was obtained in the jack fruit seed flour compared to seed starch and corn starch. Jack fruit seed had an emulsification value of 16 ml/100g of flour. The values for jack fruit seed starch and corn starch was 2.6 ml and 6.9 ml per 100 grams of flour respectively.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6KJgsxbmwIO1oLo0CnS3wMIjPNV3MtOBChOFNgY0EnB97GoHLlAKb-kjcip5XBlFVi8q31MM1lhhoql3If_w08gL9q2Y3u-_MaaqsUDqWXJ4TKaD3z730-fsgv0o03HNl34DCnHM-GCc/s1600/fruit-3498540_960_720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="960" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6KJgsxbmwIO1oLo0CnS3wMIjPNV3MtOBChOFNgY0EnB97GoHLlAKb-kjcip5XBlFVi8q31MM1lhhoql3If_w08gL9q2Y3u-_MaaqsUDqWXJ4TKaD3z730-fsgv0o03HNl34DCnHM-GCc/s320/fruit-3498540_960_720.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-1135635536117215832019-11-24T08:23:00.000-08:002019-11-24T08:23:25.386-08:00Why It's Easier to Succeed with Avocado Than You Might Think<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Avocado (Persea americana) has been referred to as the most nutritious of all fruits. It has gained worldwide recognition and significant volume in international trade. This unique fruit has been appreciated and utilized for at least 9000 years in and near its center of origin in Meso-America.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The avocado tree, which is related to the laurel, grows in semitropical climates. Giant prehistoric ground sloths feasted on ripe avocados, rapidly packing masses of oily flesh into their mouths, and later defecating seeds with hardly a sense of their passing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The famous Amazon plant specialist, Richard Spruce, wrote that he was acquainted with wild jaguars deep in the rain forest, that would sometimes gather around an avocado tree, "gnawing the fallen fruit and snarling over them as so many cats might do."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The Meso-American origin of avocado includes habitats from sea level to high altitudes exceeding 3000 m above sea level. It is covering a range of climates and soil types which gave rise to great genetic diversity and adaptability. Although avocado evolved within tropical latitudes, the moderating effect of altitude has strongly impacted on the gene pool.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The tropical highlands or borderline cool subtropical climates are equally well adapted to warm subtropical areas and dominates production in these regions. sometimes hybridized with Guatemalan ecotypes, is adapted to humid tropical lowland climates.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The fruit flesh, which is lower in oil but higher in sugar than Mexican and Guatemalan ecotypes, has a distinctly different flavor and dominates lowland tropical and semi-tropical growing areas.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The crop is mostly grown as seedling trees, which are generally managed from a lower technology base than the subtropical cultivars. However, superior cultivars are grown as grafted trees and continues to provide technology for production of West Indian and West Indian hybrid cultivars.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Avocado technology continues to advance at a rapid rate, resulting in a significant increase in the volume of this crop. The industry is currently struggling with the consequences of orchard intensification dictated by economic realities, with the technology required to meet this challenge. The first avocado introduction to California occurred before 1856, when a tree from Nicaragua, probably brought by a gold-rush participant, was observed growing near San Gabriel.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Water for Avocado</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Avocado is a challenge to irrigate properly. Also, proper irrigation arrangement, with good quality water supplied to the trees through an efficient irrigation system, is a challenging requirement for all avocado groves. The further complication is the accumulation of salts in the soil through poor leaching.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The use of saline well water, saline surface water, or reclaimed water (if it is too salty) also reduces yields significantly and may not be sufficiently corrected with leaching. Despite these challenges, avocados can be successfully grown in if the grower and the irrigation are diligent. Missing a series of irrigation for one to two weeks may initiate fruit drop in trees and ruin the production for that year.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">You know water plays a vital role in the photosynthesis reaction that creates the carbohydrates for growth and fruit production. Water is also important to produce Amino acids and proteins, vitamins, hormones, and enzymes. Water passing through the stomata in the leaf provides a cooling effect. An over</span><span style="font-family: "Cambria Math", serif; font-size: 12pt;">‐</span><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">heated leaf will usually shut down photosynthesis and may burn.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Checking Soil Moisture for Avocado Tree</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">There are several ways to check the soil moisture content. Probably the oldest method is to manually check the water content in the soil using a trowel, shovel, or soil tube. A soil sample is removed by digging 8 to 16 inches deep in the wetted area of the root zone, and a ball of the soil is formed in the hand. The texture of soil that has about 50% available water remaining will feel as follows:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Coarse – appears almost dry, will form a ball that does not hold shape. As mentioned, in coarse soils, it is best not to let the soil get this dry. A ball of soil will just begin to fall apart when the soil moisture depletion approaches 30%.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Loam – forms a ball, somewhat moldable, will form a weak ribbon when squeezed between fingers, dark color.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Health Benefits of Avocado</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">·</span><span style="line-height: 17.12px;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span></span><b style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Lowers Blood Cholesterol.</span></b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;"> So, eating half an avocado every other day would probably support your own cholesterol drop some. Patients at the V.A. Hospital in Coral Gables, Florida ranging in age from 27 to 72 were given 1/2 to 1-1/4 avocados per day. Twice a week blood samples were taken. 50% of them showed a definite decrease in serum cholesterol from 8.7-42.8%.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Avocado-Chamomile for Psoriasis</span></b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">. A rather extraordinary twofold approach towards relieving the itchy misery of psoriasis is by eating half of an avocado daily and applying an extra-rich cream of chamomile flowers extract to the skin. The oils in the avocado will work internally towards the surface of the skin, soothing deep muscle inflammation. The avocado oils help the skin to literally repair itself from the damage done by psoriasis.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">An Ancient Mayan Beauty Secret.</span></b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;"> Semi-domestication of the avocado dates to pre-Columbian times, as the fruit was valued by both the Mayan and Aztec civilizations as evidenced by it appearing in their iconography. It is believed that these cultures actively selected for larger fruit sizes and improved eating quality.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">While working at an archaeological site several years ago near the Honduran-Guatemalan border, Chorti women (descendants of the ancient Maya) rubbed their hair and bodies with oil to keep them soft and resilient. They were using avocado oil to keep their skin from getting burned by the hot, glaring sun and the rough elements of wind and rain. They even rubbed some on their lips to keep them nice and moist.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Some of the Chorti women seemed to be in their late 20's or early 30's. Most of them were in their mid-to-late fifties! Now a pretty good judge of age because of my training in anthropology, but their constant use of avocado oil sure fooled others about how old they were. You too can experience near ageless beauty again simply by using avocado oil in place of other lotions and creams.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Food Value, Vitamins, and Fatty Acids:</span></b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;"> One hundred grams of the avocado pulp can supply 20 g of oil, 6 g of carbohydrates and 2 g of protein. </span><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The pulp is a valuable source of carotene, niacin, pantothenic acid, pyroxidine, riboflavin, and thiamine. Avocado pulp is also a source of lesser quantities of vitamin K, folic acid, ascorbic acid, biotin, and tocopherol.</span><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The Fatty acid composition of the lipids in avocado fruit vary with cultivar and other factors, but the the major fatty acid is always oleic, followed by palmitic and linoleic acids. Palmitoleic acid may or may not be present. The fatty acids in olive fruit are: oleic, 83%; linoleic, 7%; palmitic, 6%; and stearic, 4%.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The triglyceride content found in the avocado pulp and concurrent fall in water content. Linolenic acid being present in fruit weight and fatty acids are present in avocado pulp: linolenic, myristic, stearic, and arachidic.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Protein and Ash! </span></b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Avocado pulp is richer in protein than that of other fruits but compared with meat, milk and some pulses cannot be considered a good source of protein. It contains higher amounts of free amino acids than other fruits.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The major ones being asparagine, aspartic acid, glutamine, and glutamic acid. Amino acids found in minor quantities in the flesh of ‘Fuerte’ were serine, threonine, alanine, valine, and cystine. All essential acids are present in the pulp.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Avocados were found to contain a relatively high amount of ash (1.0–1.4%), which was relatively rich in iron that was physiologically available to experimental rats, and thus was considered of potential value in preventing or curing anemia.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">·</span><span style="line-height: 17.12px;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span></span><b style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Avocado is high nutritional food</span></b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">: it is very useful for unsaturated oils in promoting the health of the heart and circulatory system. Avocado oils used in cosmetics, where they are applied by themselves or in combination with other ingredients to soften the skin and improve its texture and appearance.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Avocado pulp </span></b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">is mashed up and applied as a facial and allergy treatment.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Avocado is also used in cooking, presumably because of off-flavors (i.e. bitterness) when the pulp is subjected to high temperatures. However, the use of avocado fruit in salads, sandwiches, ‘dips’ and cold soups like vichyssoise will serve to assure its continuing popularity.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">·<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span><b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;"> </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Avocado Tree and Growth</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The seedling trees' ecotypes, especially in their native rain-forest environments, can reach heights exceeding 15 to 30 m. However, are dwarfed to a varying extent, depending on root stock vigor and growing conditions. Cultivated avocado trees are mostly evergreen, despite the surprisingly short leaf longevity of 10–12 months. Some cultivars are more prone to defoliation just before flowering, especially in environments that impose stress, e.g. winter cold and drought, soil salinity, and root infection by Phytophthora cinnamomic.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Severe photoinhibition of leaves in winter may also hasten leaf senescence, aggravated by the loss of feeder roots accompanying heavy flowering. Avocado trees are capable of fast growth in height and spread, with 1 m per year not unusual in young trees in the moist subtropics. The wood is rather spongy due to the relatively thin-walled fibers caused by a rapid increase in branch thickness.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Branches bend without difficulty under the weight of fruit, and for a given thickness are not closely as strong as those of citrus. Avocado trees are more likely to be semi-deciduous, store more carbohydrates in autumn and winter but use more in spring, and be more reliant on stored carbohydrate reserves in relation to photosynthate than in the warm, moist subtropics.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Vegetative Growth Flushes</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The avocado trees characteristically have a rounded canopy with dense foliage. Growth form though varies from upright to rounding to spreading. The most polyaxial evergreens, shoot growth in mature trees is harmonized into flushes of varying vigor, duration, and extent.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">In the moist, summer-rainfall subtropics, bearing trees are characterized by a spring growth flush which starts during flowering and peaks in early summer. The proportion of terminal and sub-terminal shoots in active growth then reduces to a low level, to be followed by a second (summer and early autumn) growth flush. In climates such as those of southern California, the spring flush may end earlier, allowing an early summer flush and an autumn flush.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The avocado tree abscisses, perhaps through the activity of the periderm, most of its lateral buds at about 1 year of age or sooner, except at the intercalation. The pruning cut back to the earlier intercalation in autumn will release the growth of the ring of buds and upsurge shoot complexity. The loss of axillary buds affects graft wood selection and is a reason for the widespread use of grafting rather than budding in avocado propagation.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The persisting intercalary buds at the ‘bud ring’ between shoot, flushes grow sufficiently each year to keep their meristems at the bark surface. They may subsequently sprout after severe pruning or branch bending. Avocado leaves expand to full size in about 30 days.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">A Quick Laxative Recipe</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">One famous recipe uses ripe avocados regularly as a fast-acting laxative. So, peel two of them and mash the meat up good in a dish, adding a little kelp, 3 tbsp. apple cider vinegar, and 1 tsp. lemon juice. After mixing them together, spread the mixture on some sprouted cracked wheat or pumpernickel bread and eat it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Not only does it make incredibly delicious sandwiches, but usually within just a couple of hours or less, it will promote a vigorous bowel movement. Hence, too seldom ever has constipation as a result of even above the ’60's.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Another Avocado Recipe</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">The Ultimate Guacamole Dip Needed: 4 large peeled, pitted avocados; 7 tsp. peeled, grated onion; 1/8 tsp. cayenne (optional); 1/2 tsp kelp; two 8 oz. cans of peeled tomatoes; 4 tbsp. plain yogurt; 1/2 tsp. lemon juice; 1/2 tsp.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Worcestershire sauce. Mash all the ingredients together in a large mixing bowl and whip until well-blended and smooth. Chill before serving. Use natural corn chips from your local health food store for dipping.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfdHlHEOq4H8LWJQ1aGCNrwyOb4Xzf6dwbggIo9ZlM8m7TrpjEmKEqIceTeEi0XQ2ResYM2dTHoFf9iLEAVL-wC7G1YWxGHP_HNEu-YkF9_QCOVsvKCYea8OF1iD7aUtrH5QZdun_QG1k/s1600/avocado-933060_960_720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="642" data-original-width="960" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfdHlHEOq4H8LWJQ1aGCNrwyOb4Xzf6dwbggIo9ZlM8m7TrpjEmKEqIceTeEi0XQ2ResYM2dTHoFf9iLEAVL-wC7G1YWxGHP_HNEu-YkF9_QCOVsvKCYea8OF1iD7aUtrH5QZdun_QG1k/s640/avocado-933060_960_720.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Reference: </span><span style="font-family: "Century Gothic", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px;">Gary S. Bender, Ph.D., Farm Advisor</span></div>
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-88062315002144168372019-09-16T09:35:00.003-07:002019-09-16T09:41:43.888-07:00Banana – Helpful in Inflammation of all Kinds<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">The banana is very useful in inflammation of all kinds. For
this reason it is very helpful in cases of typhoid fever, gastritis,
peritonitis, etc. It may constitute the only food acceptable for a time. Not
only does it in fact subdue the inflammation of the intestines, but, in the opinion
of at least one authority, as it consists of 95%. Nutriment, it does not
possess adequate waste matter to irritate the inflamed spots.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">But immense care should be taken in its administration. The
banana should be </span><i><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">carefully sound and ripe</span></i><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">, and the whole stringy portion carefully removed. It should
then be mashed and beaten to a cream. In harsh cases it is better to give this
neat. But if not liked by the patient a little lemon juice, well mixed in, may
render it more suitable. It may also be taken with fresh cream.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">There is a person who had a very wide experience in illness. That
she was once suddenly sent for at night to a girl suffering from peritonitis.
Not knowing what she might, or might not; find in the way of remedies when she
arrived at her destination. It took with her some strong barley water, bananas,
and an enema syringe. She found the girl lying across the bed screaming,
obviously in agony. First of all my friend administered a warm water enema. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">A pint of plain warm water was injected first, and after this
had come away as much warm water as could be got in was injected and then
allowed to come away. The object of this was to methodically wash out the
bowels. Then the barley water was warmed, the bananas mashed, and beaten to
cream, with mixed in with the barley water. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">A relaxing nutrient lotion was thus prepared, and as much as
the patient could bear happily was injected in the bowel and retained as long
as possible. The effect was truly magical. The pain subsided, and the patient eventually
recovered.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">In the absence of </span><i><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">completely
</span></i><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">ripe bananas, baked bananas may be used.
But, even though better than no fruit at all, cooked fruit is never as precious
as the fresh fruit, if only the latter be absolutely ripe. Bananas should be
baked in their skins, and the stringy pieces carefully removed before eating.
From twenty minutes to half an hour's slow cooking is required.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Bananas are exceptional food for anemic persons on account of
the iron they contain. A very edible way of taking them is with fresh orange
juice. A moderately old-fashioned remedy, for sprained or bruised places that
show a propensity to become inflamed is to apply a plaster of banana skin.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ1hp6WdsBu3vH48Xu6RSsIq9beytliAhllL5QcJehWC9vTwdT0f975mFy6a_kntsysZUQbjXJ9O9sGM2kmc4k5x9qWiXwgRwPTshgjbxiDoXZWmnrxDFL7b606kzUxkXIAkAAIR_f7tA/s1600/bananas-1119790_960_720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Banana – Helpful in Inflammation of all Kinds" border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="960" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ1hp6WdsBu3vH48Xu6RSsIq9beytliAhllL5QcJehWC9vTwdT0f975mFy6a_kntsysZUQbjXJ9O9sGM2kmc4k5x9qWiXwgRwPTshgjbxiDoXZWmnrxDFL7b606kzUxkXIAkAAIR_f7tA/s640/bananas-1119790_960_720.jpg" title="Banana – Helpful in Inflammation of all Kinds" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Banana – Helpful in Inflammation of all Kinds</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-59678848680472096922019-08-14T22:25:00.001-07:002019-08-14T22:29:56.936-07:00Black Walnut – Juglans Nigra<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif;">Blacknut, “Juglans nigra”, is a species of deciduous tree in the walnut family, Juglandaceae, native to North America. This is stately forest tree ranges from Massachusetts to Minnesota and Nebraska, south to Florida and Texas. It does best in a rich loamy soil and is often seen along fences, roadsides, and the borders of woods. Squirrels and other animals buried the nuts along fences where young trees appear. Of course, it was initially a forest tree, common on hillsides and rich bottom lands; but now we rarely see it in the dense woods. The black walnut was introduced into Europe in 1629 and is also cultivated in Hawaii.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif;">The pioneer farmers, in clearing the land, seldom allowed the Black Walnut to grow in the fields and about their homes, and some were probably planted. In many places this tree is becoming scarce on account of being cut for its valuable wood. Under favorable conditions; the walnut may reach an extreme height of nearly a 100 feet and a trunk diameter of 6 feet. In the open, it develops large branches and is wide-spreading.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif;">The bark is dark brown with prominent ridges and deep furrows. The large compound leaves are very similar to those of the butternut. The staminate catkins, which appear with the leaves, also resemble those of the butternut. The fruit is nearly round, yellowish green, roughly dotted, an inch and a half to nearly three inches in diameter. Nutritionally, the black walnut kernel is high in unsaturated fat and protein. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif;">The husk does not split open like that of the hickory nut. The nut within is dark, rough, very hard or bony, nearly round, only slightly compressed, and an inch and a quarter to nearly two inches in diameter. The sweet, edible, four-celled kernel has a pleasant but strong taste and is quite oily. The Black Walnut is one of the most important of our native nut-bearing trees. The walnut shells are frequently used as an abrasive in sand blasting or other circumstances where a medium hardness grit is necessary.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif;">Large quantities of the nuts are gathered for home use, and many are sold in the markets. The American Indians made great use of them as an article of food. The husk has an aromatic odor and is sometimes used for dyeing and tanning. The mere name of Black Walnut brings pleasant recollections to the minds of many grown folks who spent their youth in the country. Also, the tree wood has in the past been used for gun stocks, furniture, flooring, paddles, coffins, and many other wood products.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif;">The writer recalls that three quite large trees stood along the fence that enclosed the grounds of the school he attended when a lad. The trees gave us exercise in climbing. When we returned to school in autumn, the nuts on the branches were excellent targets for our marksmanship. They were gathered and carried home by the boys who did not naturally fall heir to such articles of diet. The Black walnut drupes contain juglone, plumbagin, and tannin.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif;">In the adjoining field, a few rods from the fence stood a great spreading walnut tree, presumably the parent of all the others in the immediate neighborhood. The ground was often nearly covered by the un-hulled nuts. The fanner owning the land always left the nuts for the boys. Here during the noon hour of pleasant autumn days, we often congregated to eat walnuts or shuck them to take home. Black walnut is also used in allelopathic releases chemicals from roots and other tissues. These are harmful for some other organisms and give the tree a competitive advantage. Also this is time and again undesirable as it can harm garden plants and grasses.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif;">Our fingers were stained a dark brown the skin almost tanned. With all the washing with soap and water, we could not remove the color and our fingers carried the telltale stains for a week or two. But what a good time we had! Sometimes in the spring we tried the nuts but then after being moist with rain and snow all winter, they were getting ready to grow and had a peculiar sweet taste. The Black walnut is at present under immense pressure from the thousand of cankers disease that is causing decline of walnuts in a number of areas.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif;">I am informed by a friend that even the nuts of the Bitter-Fruited Hickory lose their bitterness, or most of it, after being buried or left out for a winter. I have not verified this by experiment. The Texas Walnut, “Juglans rupestris”, which grows along canons and streams of the Southwest, has small thick-shelled nuts much esteemed by the Mexicans and Indians. The California Walnut, Juglans californica, is a beautiful tree growing along the west coast.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif;">The nuts are small, thin-shelled, and sweet. The Persian or English walnut, “Juglans regia”, is grafted on its roots so that it can be grown farther north. Another species, “Juglans kindsii”, is found about old Indian camp sites in central California. Moreover the black walnut is an imperative tree commercially, as the wood is a deep brown color and easily worked and cultivated for their distinctive and desirable taste. The U.S. national champion black walnut is on a residential property in Oregon. It is 8 ft 7 inches diameter at breast height and 112 ft tall, with a crown spread of 144 feet. </span><span style="color: #003366;"><em>Read More - <a href="https://charismaticplanet.com/how-to-grow-peas/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: #003366;" target="_blank">How to Grow Sweat Peas?</a></em></span><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif;"></span><br />
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-75581204519406673712019-08-13T06:01:00.002-07:002019-08-13T06:26:16.403-07:00How to Grow Sweet Peas?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Common names: </span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; text-align: justify;">pea, sweet pea, garden
pea, sugar pea, English pea</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Botanical name: </span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Pisum sativum<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Origin: </span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Europe, Near East<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Varieties Shelling
types: </span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Little
Marvel (62 days); Frosty (64 days); Wando (75 days); Dwarf Grey Sugar (65 days).
<b>Edible-pod types: </b>Giant Melting (65 days); Melting Sugar (69 days);
Oregon Sugar Pod (75 days); Sugar Snap (65 days).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Description<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Peas are hardy,
weak-stemmed, climbing annuals that have leaf like stipules, leaves with one to
three pairs of leaflets, and tendrils that they use for climbing. The flowers
are white, streaked, or colored. The fruit is a pod containing four to 10
seeds, either smooth or wrinkled depending on the variety. Custom has it that you
can make a wish if you find a pea pod with nine or more peas in it. Edible-pod
peas are a fairly recent development. Grow them the same way as sweet peas, but
harvest the immature pod before the peas have developed to full size. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Peas have
traditionally been a difficult crop for the home gardener to grow, with yields
so low that it was hardly worth planting them. The introduction of the new
easy-to-grow varieties of edible-pod peas has made growing peas a manageable undertaking
for the home gardener, and no garden should be without them. All you need to grow
peas is cool weather and a six-foot support trellis.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Where and when to grow<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Peas are a cool-season
crop that must mature before the weather gets hot. Ideal growing weather for
peas is moist and between 60° and 65°F, Plant them as soon as the soil can be
worked in spring about six weeks before the average date of last frost.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">How to plant<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Peas tolerate partial
shade and need good drainage in soil that is high in organic material. They produce
earlier in sandy soil, but yield a heavier, later crop if grown in clay soil.
Although soaking seeds can speed germination, a lot of seed can be ruined by over
soaking, and peas are harder to plant when they're wet, because the seeds tend
to break. Before planting, work a complete well-balanced fertilizer into the
soil at the rate of one pound per 100 square feet or 10 pounds per 1,000 square
feet. Plant the peas two inches deep, one to two inches apart, in rows 18 to 24
inches apart.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Fertilizing and
watering<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Fertilize before
planting and again at midseason, at the same rate as the rest of the garden. Detailed
information on fertilizing is given in "Spadework: The Essential
Soil" in P a r t i. Peas need ample moisture; don't let the soil dry out.
When the vines are flowering, avoid getting water on the plants; it may damage
the flowers and reduce the crop.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Special handling<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Provide trellises to
support the pea vines. Cultivate very gently to avoid harming the fragile
roots. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Pests<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Aphids, rabbits,
birds, and people are attracted to pea vines. Control aphids by pinching out infested
foliage or by hosing them off the vines. Fence out the rabbits, and discourage
birds with a scarecrow. Stern words may do the trick with human trespassers.
Despite this competition, peas are an excellent crop for any garden. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Diseases<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Peas are susceptible
to rot, wilt, blight, mosaic, and mildew. New, highly disease-resistant varieties
are available; use them to cut down on disease problems in your garden. You
will also lessen the incidence of disease if you avoid handling the vines when they're
wet, and if you maintain the general health and cleanliness of the garden. If a
plant does become diseased, remove and destroy it before it can spread disease
to healthy plants. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">When and how to
harvest <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Time from planting to
harvest is from 55 to 80 days. A 10-foot row may give you about three pounds of
pods. Pick shelling peas when the pods are full and green, before the peas
start to harden. Over mature peas are nowhere near as tasty as young ones; as
peas increase in size, the sugar content goes down as the starch content goes
up. Sugar<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>will also begin converting to
starch as soon as peas are picked. To slow this process, chill the peas in their
pods as they are picked and shell them immediately before cooking. Harvest
edible-pod peas before the peas mature. Pods<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Should be plump, but
the individual peas should not be completely showing through the pod.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Storing and preserving<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Storing fresh shelling
peas is seldom an issue for home gardeners; there are seldom any left to store
but they can be stored in the refrigerator, unshelled, up to one week. You can
sprout, freeze, can, or dry peas. Dried peas can be stored in a cool, dry place
for 10 to 12 months. Edible-pod peas are also so good raw that you may not even
get them as far as the kitchen. If you do have any to spare, you can store them
in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for seven to 10 days. Edible-pod peas also
freeze well and, unlike shelling peas. lose little of their flavor when frozen.
Detailed information on storing and preserving is given in Part 3.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Serving suggestions<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Freshly shelled peas
are a luxury seldom enjoyed by most people. Cook them quickly in a little water
and serve them with butter and chopped mint. Or add a sprig of mint during
cooking. Fresh peas and boiled new potatoes are the perfect accompaniment for a
lamb roast. Toss cold, cooked peas into a salad, or add them to potato salad —
throw in diced cooked carrots as well, and you've got a Russian salad. Simmer peas
in butter with a handful of lettuce tossed in at the end of the cooking time or
try lining the pot with lettuce leaves and cooking the peas briefly over low heat.
Add a few sautéed mushrooms or onions for a sophisticated vegetable dish. Add
edible pod peas to a stir-fry dish — the rapid cooking preserves their crisp
texture and delicate flavor. Eat them raw, or use them alone, lightly steamed,
as a side dish.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Pea Black Eyed<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Common names: </span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">pea, black-eyed pea,
cowpea, chowder pea, southern pea, black-eyed bean, China bean <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Botanical name: </span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Gigna sinensis<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Origin: </span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Asia<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Varieties; </span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">California Black Eye
(75 days); Pink Eye Purple Hull (78 days); Mississippi Silver (80 days).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Description<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Black-eyed peas are
tender annuals that can be either bushy or climbing plants, depending on the
variety. The seeds of the dwarf varieties are usually white with a dark spot
(black eye) where they're attached to the pod; sometimes the spots are brown or
purple. Black-eyed peas originated in Asia. Slave traders brought them to Jamaica,
where they became a staple of the West Indies' diet.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Where and when to grow<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Unlike sweet peas,
black-eyed peas tolerate high temperatures but are very sensitive to cold — the
slightest frost will harm them. They grow very well in the South, but they
don't grow well from transplants, and some Northern areas may not have a long
enough growing season to accommodate them from seeds. If your area has a long
enough warm season, plant black-eyed peas from seed four weeks after the
average date of last frost.<b> <o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">How to plant<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Black-eyed peas will
tolerate partial shade and will grow in very poor soil. In fact, like other legumes,
they're often grown to improve the soil. Well-drained, well-worked soil that's
high in organic matter increases their productivity. When you're preparing the
soil for planting, you have to work in a complete, well-balanced fertilizer at
the rate of one pound per 100 square feet or 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Sow
seeds half an inch deep and about two inches apart in rows two to three feet
apart; when the seedlings are large enough to handle, thin them to three or
four inches apart.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Fertilizing and
watering<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Fertilize before
planting and again at midseason, at the same rate as the rest of the garden. Detailed
information on fertilizing is given in "Spadework: The Essential
Soil" in P a r t i. Don't let the soil dry out, but try to keep water off
the flowers; it may cause them to fall off, and this will reduce the yield.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Pests<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Beetles, aphids,
spider mites, and leafhoppers attack black-eyed peas. Control aphids and beetles
physically by hand-picking or hosing them off the plants, pinch out
aphid-infested vegetation, or using a chemical spray of Diazinon or Malathion. Hose
leafhoppers off the plants or spray with carbaryl. Spider mites are difficult
to control even with<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">The proper chemicals;
remove the affected plants before the spider mites spread, or spray the undersides
of the foliage with Diazinon. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Diseases<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Black-eyed peas are
susceptible to anthracnose, rust, mildews,mosaic, and wilt. Planting disease-resistant
varieties when possible and maintaining the general cleanliness and health of your
garden will help cut down the incidence of disease. To avoid spreading disease,
don't work with the plants when they're wet. If a plant does become infected, remove
it before it can spread disease to healthy plants. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">When and how to
harvest<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Time from planting to
harvest is from 70 to 110 days. You can eat either the green pods or the dried
peas. Pick pods at whatever stage of maturity you desire — either young and
tender or fully matured to use dried.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Storing and preserving<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Unshelled black-eyed
peas can be kept up to one week in the refrigerator. Young black-eyed peas can
be frozen, pod and all; the mature seeds can be dried, canned, or frozen. Dried
shelled black-eyed peas can be stored in a cool, dry place for 10 to 12 months.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Serving suggestions<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Eat young black-eyed
peas in the pod like snap beans; dry the shelled peas for use in casseroles and
soups. Combine cooked black-eyed peas and rice, season with red pepper sauce,
and bake until hot; or simmer the peas with pork or bacon for a classic
Southern dish.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt;"><br /></span>
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-40915571127448042402019-06-27T10:26:00.001-07:002019-08-13T06:26:40.842-07:00Betony Wood (Betonica OJicinalis)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Description
<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The common wood betony
had many leaves rising from the root. Which are somewhat broad and round at the
end? It is roundly dented about the edges, standing upon long foot stalks, from
among which rise up small, square, slender, but upright hairy stalks. There is
with some leaves thereon, to a piece at the joints, smaller than the lower. Whereof
are set more than a few spiked heads of flowers like lavender. Hence it is thicker
and shorter for the most part, and of a reddish and purple color, spotted with
white spots both in the upper and lower part. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Also, the seeds
being contained in the husks that hold the flowers are blackish, somewhat long
and uneven. The roots are a lot of white thread strings; the stalk perished,
but the roots with some leaves thereon, abide all the winter. The whole plant
is somewhat small. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It growth is normally
in woods and delighted, in shady places.
It flowers comes in July, after when the seed is swiftly ripped, yet in
its prime in May. The herb is appropriated to the planet Jupiter, and the sign
Aries. Antonius Mum, physician to the Emperor Agustus Ctesar, wrote a peculiar
book of the Virtues of this herb. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Use
of Betony Wood<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It is among other virtue
said of it, that it preserved the liver and body of man from the danger of
epidemical diseases. It also helps in from witchcraft also and supports those
that loathe or cannot digest their meal. Moreover, those who have weak stomachs
or sour belching and continual rising in their stomach using it closely either
green or dry. Either the herb or root, or the flowers in broth, drink, or meat,
or made into conserve syrup, water, electuary, or powder. As everyone may beat
frame themselves unto, or as the time or season required; taken any of the
aforesaid ways. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It supports in the
jaundice, falling sickness, the palsy, convulsions, shrinking of the sinews,
the gout, and those that are inclined to dropsy, those that have continual
pains in their heads, although it turn to frenzy. The powder mixed with pure
honey is no less available for all sorts of coughs or colds, wheezing, or
shortness of breath, distillations of thin rheum’s upon the lungs, which caused
consumptions.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The decoction made
with mead and a little pennyroyal. It is good for those that are troubled with
putrid agues, whether quotidian, tertian, or quartan and to draw down and
evacuate the blood and humors. That by falling into the eyes, do hinder the sight.
The decoction thereof made in wine, and taken, killed the worms in the belly,
opened obstructions both of the spleen and liver. It cured stitches and pains
in the back or sides. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The torments and
griping pains of the bowels and the wind cholic, and mixed with honey purged
the belly. It helped to bring down women's courses, and is of special use for
those that are troubled with the falling down of the mother. The pains thereof,
and caused an easy and speedy delivery of women in child-birth. It helped also
to break and expels the stone, either in the bladder or kidneys. The decoction
with wine gargled in the mouth eased the toothache. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It is suggested
against the stinging or biting of venomous serpents, or mad dogs, being used
inwardly and applied outwardly to the place. A dram of the powder of betony, taken
with a little honey in some vinegar, doth magnificently refresh those that are
over wearied by travel. It stayed bleeding at the mouth and nose, and helps
those that evacuate blood, and those that are bursten or have a rupture, and is
good for such as are bruised by any fall or otherwise. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Moreover, the green
herb bruised, or the juice affect to any inward hurt, or outward green wound in
the head or body. It will speedily heal and close it up: as also any veins or
sinews that are cut; and will draw forth a broken bone or splinter, thorn or
other things got into. It is no less profitable for old and filthy ulcers; yes,
though they are fistulous and hollow. But some do advice to put a little salt
to this purpose, being applied with a little hog's lard. Further, it helped a
plague or sore and other bile’s and pushes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The fume of the
decoction while it is warm received by a funnel into the ears, eased the pains
of them, destroys the worms, and cured the running sores in them: the juice
dropped into them doth the same. The root of betony is displeasing both to the stomach
and taste. Whereas, the leaves and
flowers, are having their sweet and spicy taste, are comfortable both to meat
and medicine. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">These are some of the many
virtues Antonius Musa, an expert physician, for it was not the practice of
Octavius Caesar to keep fools about him appropriates to betony. It is a very
precious herb that is certain, and most fitting to be kept in a man's house.
So, hence it is both in syrup, conserve, oil, ointment, and plaster. The
flowers are usually conserved. </span><br />
<strong style="color: #003366;"><br /></strong>
<strong style="color: #003366;"><em><a href="https://13eda6spi15o5r11wax5xowl4g.hop.clickbank.net/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: #003366;" target="_blank">60 Seconds Habit ! That Reversed Type 2 Diabetes and Melted 56 lbs of Fat</a></em></strong><br />
<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><em><br /></em></span>
<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><em>Read More - <a href="https://charismaticplanet.com/coriander-or-coriandrum-sativum-a-hardy-annual-herb/" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Coriander or Coriandrum Sativum ! A Hardy Annual Herb</a></em></span><br />
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-59942245198562996432019-06-04T22:24:00.003-07:002019-06-04T22:24:46.593-07:00Kohlrabi - A Member of Cabbage Clan <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<em style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: blue; font-family: Roboto, sans-serif; font-size: 27px; text-align: justify;"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">Description</strong></em><br />
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Kohlrabi is a hardy biennial grown as an annual and is a member of the cabbage clan. It has a swollen stem that makes it looks like a turnip growing on cabbage root. This swollen stem can be white, purple, or green, and is topped with a rosette of blue-green leaves. In German, kohl means cabbage and rabi means turnip a clue to the taste and texture of kohlrabi, though it is mild and sweeter than either of them.</em></div>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Kohlrabi is a fair addition to the vegetables grown in northern Europe. In this countryside, nobody paid any attention until the 1800s. Kohlrabi is a biennial vegetable, a low, stout cultivar of wild cabbage. Kohlrabi is a similar species like cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kale, Brussels sprouts, collard greens, Savoy cabbage, and gai lan.</em></div>
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: blue;"><em style="box-sizing: border-box;"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">Where and When to Grow?</strong></em></span></h2>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">All Cole crops are hardy and can tolerate low 20°F temperatures. Kohlrabi tolerates heat better than other members of the cabbage family, but planting should be timed for harvesting during cool weather. Kohlrabi has a shorter growing season than cabbage. It grows best in cool weather and produces better with a 10° to 15°F difference between Day and night temperatures.</em></div>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Those areas which have cold winters, so, plant for summer to early fall harvest. The South plant to harvest in late fall or winter. With spring plantings, start kohlrabi early so that most growth will occur before the weather gets too hot.</em></div>
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: blue;"><em style="box-sizing: border-box;"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">How to Plant Kohlrabi?</strong></em></span></h2>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Kohlrabi likes fertile, well-drained soil with a pH within the 6.5 to 7.5 range. This discourages disease and lets the plant make the most of the nutrients in the soil. The soil should be high in organic matter. When preparing the soil for planting, work in a complete, well-balanced fertilizer at the rate of one pound per 100 square feet or 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet.</em></div>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Cole crops are generally grown from transplants except where they’re’s a long cool period. Kohlrabi, however, can be grown directly from seed in the garden. Sow seeds in rows 18 to 24 inches apart and cover them with a quarter to a half inch of soil. When the seedlings are growing well, thin them to five or six inches apart you can transplant the thinning. Kohlrabi to cultivate cautiously to keep away from harming the shallow roots</em></div>
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: blue;"><em style="box-sizing: border-box;"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">Fertilizing and Watering</strong></em></span></h2>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Fertilize before planting and again at midseason, at the same rate as the rest of the garden. The Essential Soil for Kohlrabi should have even moisture or it will become woody. In spite of it’s general names, it is not the same species as a turnip.</em></div>
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: blue;"><em style="box-sizing: border-box;"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">Pests & Diseases</strong></em></span></h2>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">The cabbage family’s traditional enemies are cutworms and caterpillars. Cutworms, cabbage loopers, and imported </em><em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Cabbage worms can all be controlled by spraying with bacillus thuringiensis, an organic product also known as Dipel or Thungicide. Also, cabbage family crops are susceptible to yellows, club root, and downy mildew.</em></div>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Lessen the incidence of disease by planting disease-resistant varieties when they're available; maintaining the general health of you’re garden, and avoiding handling the plants when the wet. If a plant does become infected, remove and destroy it so it cannot spread the disease to healthy plants.</em></div>
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: blue;"><em style="box-sizing: border-box;"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">Storing and Preserving</strong></em></span></h2>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Kohlrabi will store for one week in a refrigerator or for one to two months in a cold, moist place. Kohlrabi can also be frozen. Some varieties of Kohlrabi are grown as feed for cattle. In the second year, Kohlrabi blooms and develops seeds, and comes in three different colors: white, purple, and pale green.</em></div>
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: blue;"><em style="box-sizing: border-box;"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">Serving Suggestions</strong></em></span></h2>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Kohlrabi can be eaten raw or cooked. Edible preparations are made with both the stem and the leaves. Small, tender kohlrabi is deliciously steamed, without peeling. As they mature you can peel off the outer skin, dice them, and boil them in a little water. Kohlrabi can also be stuffed, like squash- Try young kohlrabi raw, chilled, and sliced; the flavor is mild and sweet, and the vegetable has a nice, crisp texture.</em></div>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">You can also cook kohlrabi, then cut it into strips and marinate the strips in an oil and vinegar dressing; chill this salad to serve with cold cuts. Cooked kohlrabi can be served just with seasoning and a little melted butter or mashed with butter and cream. For a slightly different flavor, cook it in bouillon instead of water. Also, the bulbous kohlrabi stem is often used raw in salad or slaws. It has a texture alike to that of a broccoli stem, but with a flavor that is sweeter and less vegetal.</em></div>
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: blue;"><em style="box-sizing: border-box;"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">Varieties of Kohlrabi</strong></em></span></h2>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Many Kohlrabi varieties are usually available, including ‘White Vienna’, ‘Purple Vienna’, ‘Grand Duke’, ‘Gigante’, ‘Purple Danube’, and ‘White Danube’. The coloration of the purple types is superficial: the edible parts are all pale yellow. The leafy greens can also be eaten. One common variety grows without a swollen stem, having just leaves and a very thin stem, which is called Haakh. The Monj and Haakh are famous Kashmiri dishes made using this vegetable.<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #003366;"> Read More – <a href="https://charismaticplanet.com/eat-more-vegetables/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="background-color: transparent; box-sizing: border-box; color: #003366; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Why You Need to Eat More Vegetables?</a></span></em></div>
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-67750067494166664022019-05-17T11:00:00.000-07:002019-05-17T11:00:16.493-07:00Basil- The Herb of Love<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Benguiat-Book; font-size: 10pt;">Romans
once considered basil to be the herb of love and in parts of Italy. It is still
referred to as “bacia-nicola” or “kiss-me-Nicholas.” Basil is also called great
basil or Saint-Joseph's-wort, is a culinary herb of the family Lamiaceae. </span><span style="font-family: Benguiat-Book; font-size: 10pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Benguiat-Book; font-size: 10pt;">The Romans also believed that the gardener
planting the basil must curse and insult it in order to make the herb flourish.
As a native of India, basil is a sacred herb in the Hindu religion. Basil the leaf is placed on the dead in burial ceremonies to ensure that the gates of
heaven will open for them.</span></div>
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<b><span style="color: #832813; font-family: Benguiat-Bold; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Benguiat-Bold;">Description<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Benguiat-Book; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Benguiat-Book;">As one of the most popular herbs, basil is widely used throughout
the world. While there are many different types of basil, sweet basil is the
most common. Sweet basil plants have large, oval, bright green leaves with
small white flower clusters. The aroma is a complex mix of sweet and spicy with
a strong and fresh clove-like scent. Much like its aroma, sweet basil’s flavor
is warm and peppery, with a hint of clove and undertones of mint and anise.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="color: #832813; font-family: Benguiat-Bold; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Benguiat-Bold;">Culinary Uses<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Benguiat-Book; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Benguiat-Book;">Basil tastes great in tomato and pasta dishes but it also gives a sweet-scented,
minty aroma when crumbled over baked chicken, lamb or seafood. When making
pesto or its French cousin pistou, sweet basil will yield the best results.
Basil turns black when cooked in an acid medium like tomato sauce. Adding basil
towards the end of cooking will serve to retain its aroma and flavor. It blends
well with garlic, thyme, and oregano. Basil leaves can be torn, chopped or
shredded; however, cutting will bruise the leaf and cause it to darken quickly.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="color: #832813; font-family: Benguiat-Bold; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Benguiat-Bold;">Other Uses<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Benguiat-Book; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Benguiat-Book;">Some people believe putting whole basil plants on a window sill
will deter flies. Basil is also used in aromatherapy products, as a landscape
plant, and it is even dried and pressed as a part of homemade paper.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="color: #832813; font-family: Benguiat-Bold; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Benguiat-Bold;">Storing <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Benguiat-Book; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Benguiat-Book;">Fresh basil, kept loosely wrapped in a plastic bag, will last about
one week in the refrigerator, provided the leaves are not wet.</span></div>
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-59135600829849911272019-03-28T11:05:00.000-07:002019-03-28T11:05:10.586-07:00The Crispy and Crunchy Cashew Nuts<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i>The creamy, crispy and crunchy cashew nuts are cherished for their succulent flavor. They are eaten as a snack, whether roasted, salted, sugared or covered in chocolate, and are often used as a flavorful complement to appetizers, main dishes, and desserts.</i></div>
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<i>Slightly sweet in taste they are relished as a garnish in sweets and desserts. Along with almonds, they are sprinkled over desserts, particularly sundaes and other ice cream based preparations and is widely used in biscuits, sweets, and cakes.</i></div>
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<i>They are also used in Thai and Chinese cuisine, generally in the whole form as well as used, along with almonds and other dry fruits in various rice dishes and in curry preparations in India, Pakistan and Middle Eastern region.</i></div>
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<i>But that is not all there is to cashew nuts. They are packed with a mix of nutrients and minerals not found in many common foods. Cashew nuts are rich in energy and nutrients. They do have a relatively high-fat content, but it is considered good fat. They are rich in heart-friendly monounsaturated fatty acids like oleic and palmitoleic acids that help to lower LDL or bad cholesterol and increase HDL or good cholesterol.</i></div>
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<i>Despite having a relatively high-fat content, cashew nuts are considered to be low-fat nuts. In fact, cashew nuts contain less fat per serving than many other popular nuts, including almonds, walnuts, peanuts, and pecans.</i></div>
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<i>Cashew nuts are a rich source of soluble dietary fiber, vitamins, and minerals as well as numerous health promoting phytochemicals that, combined with the nut’s zero percent cholesterol content, help to protect against diseases like diabetes and gallstones as well as cancer.</i></div>
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<i>Being a rich source of minerals like manganese, potassium copper, iron, magnesium, zinc, and selenium, eating just a handful of cashew nuts every day protects against mineral deficiencies. They are also rich in many essential vitamins such as pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5), pyridoxine (Vitamin B-6), riboflavin and thiamin (Vitamin B-1). These vitamins are essential for the metabolism of protein, fat, and carbohydrates in the body but need to be replenished from external sources.</i></div>
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<i>The nuts also contain a good amount of Zea-xanthin, an important flavonoid antioxidant, which helps prevent age-related macular degeneration.</i></div>
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<i>The high energy density and high amount of dietary fiber have a beneficial effect on weight management, but only when eaten in moderation. Because of their high-fat content, over-consumption of cashew nuts, can cause unwanted weight gain. The oxalates in cashews also become concentrated in body fluids, crystallizing and causing health problems in people with pre-existing kidney or gallbladder problems. Cashew nut allergy is common, especially in children. The symptoms may range from simple itching to severe form of anaphylactic manifestations, including breathing difficulty, pain in the abdomen vomiting and diarrhea. Individuals with known allergic reactions to nuts should be cautious while eating cashews.</i></div>
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<i>While cashew nuts have a high amount of the stabilizing oleic acid, a monounsaturated fatty acid, they should always be stored in a tightly sealed container in a cool dry place, preferably kept in a refrigerator to avoid them turning rancid.</i></div>
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<i>Native to equatorial South America, the Portuguese and Spanish seafarers are credited for introducing the cashew nut to the world during the 15<sup>th</sup> and 16<sup>th</sup> centuries. Today it is grown commercially in Brazil, Vietnam, Indian and many Africans countries. The tree is small, spreading and evergreen growing to a height of 10-12 meters.</i></div>
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<i>The kidney-shaped cashew nuts are actually seeds, that grow, partly embedded, on the end of the large fleshy cashew apple. The crispy kernel is extracted after cutting the shell of the nut and is processed to free it from toxins before use. The edible part is creamy white in color, has a smooth surface with firm yet delicate texture and smells and tastes sweet and delicious. The English name cashew is derived from the Portuguese name for the fruit of the cashew tree, “caju” in the subcontinent it is known as “kaju”.</i></div>
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<i>The cashew tree, now naturalized in tropics, is grown under varied climatic and soil conditions and thrives in a tropical climate and coastal sandy land. Unfortunately, it is not cultivated in Pakistan, though it is successfully cultivated in other regions akin to our warm areas. As the cashew nut can grow in tropical coastal belts, it is worth trying to explore its prospects of growth in Pakistan warm areas.</i></div>
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<i>As it is an expensive item not only at home but also in the international market. It is, therefore, worth trying to cultivate it in Pakistan, in pockets where weather and soil conditions are suitable. If the results are encouraging, it can open new vistas of employment to the local people in production processing and packing industries. </i></div>
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<em><span style="color: #003366;">Also Read - <a href="https://charismaticplanet.com/cashew-nuts-strange-paradise-superfood/" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="color: #003366;" target="_blank">Cashew Nuts – Strange Paradise Superfood</a></span></em></h6>
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-77541128658009197462019-03-14T10:54:00.003-07:002019-03-14T10:57:46.800-07:00The Black Sapote – Chocolate Pudding Fruit<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<em>The Black Sapote “Diospyros nigra” is a species of persimmon in the family Ebenaceae. It is also called “chocolate pudding fruit” and black </em>snap apple<em>. Black Sapote is tropical fruit mostly grown in Mexico, Central America, The Caribbean, and Colombia. Sapote means soft edible fruit, has </em>no<em> relation with white sapote or mamey sapote. The tree can grow to 25 meters in height. It is an evergreen tree but frost sensitive and can tolerate light frosts. Black Sapote unripe fruits are astringent, caustic, bitter, irritating and have been used as fish poison in the Philippines.</em></h6>
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<em>The tree leaves are elliptic-oblong, tapered, dark green, glossy and 10 to 30 long. Black Sapote tree is normally found below 600 meters. The tree propagation is usually from seed required 30 days to germinate. It can retain viability for several months. Some trees are seedless, </em>however,<em> and can be propagated by air-layering or shield budding. The tree takes three to four years to grow should be spaced 10 to 12 meters apart. Normally, trees bear male and female flowers. But in some </em>cases<em>, a tree can bear male flowers. The fruit takes 4 to 5 years from seed. The tree flowers appear in the leaf axils, solitary or in small clusters are tubular and small.</em></h6>
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<em>The fruit </em>is<em> tomato likes with an inedible skin that turns from Olive to a deep yellow-green when ripe black markings near the heart of old trunks. The pulp is white and inedible but assumes a flavor, color and texture often likened to chocolate pudding when ripe. Most of </em>the fruits<em> normally </em>contain a maximum<em> of 12 seeds. Its texture like to papaya having the taste and consistency of chocolate pudding. The tree is sensitive to drought, need irrigation in dry areas. If you want to grow Black Sapote in a pot then it is possible. Normally, commercial growers plant seedlings in the pot until they become one to two feet tall before planting them on the ground.</em></h6>
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<em>The tree range in size and hairlines of leaves, shapes, seediness, flesh color and sweetness of fruit, time of fruiting suggest that considerable genetic variability exists. A healthy tree normally produced 450 kg per tree. The Black Sapote has various names like Diospyros Digyna, Diospyros Nigra, Black Persimmon, Chocolate-Fruit, Chocolate Pudding Fruit, Zapote Negro, Schwarze Sapote, Zapote Prieto, Chocolate Persimmon. </em></h6>
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<em>The sapote fruit can be eaten fresh, or with milk. However, this fruit also served as a dessert, accompanied by ice cream, milk, whipped cream, lemon juice, and orange juice. Black sapote tree doesn’t require much fertilizer; hence the organic fertilizer is sufficient. The sapote is pest free, but in rare </em>cases<em>, it can be infected by scales; by cochineals in winter or with spider mites in the summer.</em></h6>
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<em>Health Benefits of Black Sapote</em></h2>
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<em>Black sapote gear up on vitamin C, about 100gm offering of the fruit will take care 25% of daily intake, and contains about 20mg of it. It has also a good amount of vitamin A directly from the diet is a healthy practice. Black sapote can be considered quite a good source of potassium about 350mg. The tree benefits of building </em>muscle control<em> the heart’s electrical </em>activity<em> and maintains the fluid-electrolyte balance. </em></h6>
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<em>The tree contains a fair amount of calcium at about 22mg per 100gm. Black sapote provides iron in trace amounts after all packed with such a variety of vitamins and minerals? The pulpy nature of this fruit is healthy for the digestive processes. When eaten raw, it is a source of dietary fiber. Black sapote also gives you an instant dose of energy. Read About - <a href="https://charismaticplanet.com/ficus-popular-house-plant/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Ficus – The Most Popular House Plant</a> </em></h6>
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<em>Source: <a href="https://charismaticplanet.com/black-sapote-chocolate-pudding-fruit/" target="_blank">CP</a></em></h6>
<img alt="Black Sapote tree can grow to 25 meters in height. It is an evergreen tree but frost sensitive and can tolerate light frosts. " class="size-large wp-image-27739" height="394" src="https://charismaticplanet.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Black-Sapote-2-750x425.jpg" width="696" /> Black Sapote tree can grow to 25 meters in height. It is an evergreen tree but frost sensitive and can tolerate light frosts.[/caption][caption id="attachment_27740" align="aligncenter" width="696"]<img alt="The Black Sapote “Diospyros nigra” is a species of persimmon in the family Ebenaceae. It is also called “chocolate pudding fruit” " class="size-large wp-image-27740" height="386" src="https://charismaticplanet.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Black-Sapote-750x416.jpg" width="696" /> Diospyros nigra is a species of persimmon in the family Ebenaceae. It is also called “chocolate pudding fruit”[/caption][caption id="attachment_27743" align="aligncenter" width="696"]<img alt="The fruit are tomato likes with an inedible skin that turns from Olive to a deep yellow-green when ripe black markings near the heart of old trunks. " class="size-large wp-image-27743" height="522" src="https://charismaticplanet.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/20190307_125514-747x560.jpg" width="696" /> The fruit are tomato likes with an inedible skin that turns from Olive to a deep yellow-green when ripe black markings near the heart of old trunks.[/caption]<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="355" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/e0Cb32dbJUI" width="700"><span data-mce-type="bookmark" style="display: inline-block; width: 0px; overflow: hidden; line-height: 0;" class="mce_SELRES_start"></span></iframe><br />
<em>Source - <a href="https://www.stylecraze.com/articles/health-benefits-of-black-sapote/#gref" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Style Craze</a> / <a href="https://balconygardenweb.com/growing-black-sapote-how-to-grow-it-and-care/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Balcony Garden Web</a></em></div>
CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-77531393822935204402018-08-23T05:19:00.003-07:002018-08-23T05:19:36.901-07:00Grow Raspberries and Blackberries<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">If I could grow only one fruit, it would be raspberries. They're my
favorite to eat, and unaffordable in the markets, even during berry season.
Fortunately they're very easy to grow in hot climate, and for the most part
they're trouble-free. If I lived in the south where raspberries do less well,
I'd grow some gorgeous fat blackberries, which like hot climates. Raspberries
and blackberries are known as "bramble fruits" because they are so
thorny surely a deliberate move on nature's part to make them harder to pick.
Like roses, they are an exquisite prize that you earn only by putting up with a
little aggravation. <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Bramble fruits are perennial plants that bear on biennial canes. This
means that the roots live indefinitely and send up canes each year that
generally fruit the second season, and then die. By removing dead canes that
have finished fruiting and letting the new ones grow, you can maintain a berry
patch for many years. Since the patch is a permanent planting. It's worth
spending some time at the beginning to figure out just which berries you should
grow. Red raspberries appear in early summer, usually in July although there are
some fall-blooming varieties. <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">They bear for a few blissful weeks during which you gobble as many fresh
raspberries as you possibly can. Since they don't keep well, then freeze the
rest or make them into jam. You can stretch this early-summer Nirvana to a month
or more by planting several varieties that ripen at slightly different times.
Yellow raspberries are excellent for home growing too. <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">They are very sweet but not quite as appealing to birds as the red ones
are. You rarely find yellows for sale in markets, since they don't ship well. So
they make a special home-grown treat to serve alone or mixed with red and black
raspberries. They grow exactly like red raspberries, on sturdy, erect plants,
and many are hardy even in Zone 3. <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Both red and yellow raspberries send up new canes from the crowns and
also from the roots as suckers. So even if you plant only a few you will soon
have many. Raspberries and other brambles are self-fertile, so you need only
one variety to ensure pollination though some growers maintain that their yield
is greater if they grow two.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Black raspberries, also called "black caps," are quite
different from red ones. Their canes are arching or trailing and send out
vigorous fruiting side branches. Although red raspberries are borne mainly on
the long and slender canes and black raspberries don't produce the multitude of
suckers that red raspberries do. Most are hardy only to Zone 5 or 6, but unlike
the red ones, black raspberries will tolerate a fair amount of heat. Their
flavor is also a bit more tart and rich, making them a superb choice for baking,
for ice cream or for jams. Purple raspberries, a cross between black and red,
grow much like the black ones, though they are often more hardy.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">You can also plant ever-bearing raspberries for a fall harvest. These
don't really bear all summer; rather, they have two crops, one borne on
second-year canes at the usual time, and another borne in fall on the tips of
new canes produced that season. If you cut these back after the fall harvest
you will sacrifice the summer crop, but this means that the fall one will be
bigger. I prefer to grow them this way, for a big fall crop. I can always plant
a standard summer-bearing variety for the early crop. Ever-bearing varieties
can be the red or yellow.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Blackberries are larger than raspberries and a bit less sweet. They are
also less cold-hardy and do best in moderate or warm climates. The plants are
extremely vigorous and vary as to their growth habits: some have strong, erect
canes; others are trailing and will lie on the ground unless supported; still
others are semi trailing. Some varieties are thorn less. Boysenberries and
loganberries—both of which are large and wine colored, growing on trailing
plants—are simply blackberry varieties.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Site for Raspberries and Blackberries<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></b></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The best site for bramble fruits is a slightly sloping, sunny hillside
where cold air drains away. They will take a bit more shade than other fruits,
but a sunny location will provide a better yield, especially in cool climates.
Avoid sites where any of the Solanaceae have grown in recent years (page 184),
since these all share with brambles a susceptibility to the verticillium wilt
virus. It is also best to separate red and black raspberries by 300 feet, if
possible, since seemingly healthy red plants can transmit diseases to the
less-resistant blacks. Wild raspberries and blackberries can also transmit
diseases, so it is wise to eradicate any you have on the property. Be sure to
pick a well-drained site; none of the bramble fruits will grow where it's
mucky.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Soil</span></i></b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"> <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">for
Raspberries and Blackberries</b><o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Most soil types will grow bramble fruits as long as drainage is good.
Moderate fertility is sufficient, though the plants will appreciate sonic bone
meal and some rotted manure or compost worked into the soil. The more organic
matter 10 the soil, the better; it will help the soil to hold moisture. <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The soil should be slightly acid about 6.0 is ideal, but a range of 5.5
to 7.0 is acceptable. Remember that this is a permanent bed, and all weeds,
rocks and other obstacles to good growth must be removed at the beginning. The
soil should be enriched, lightened and well tilled throughout the bed before
you do your planting.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Planting Raspberries and Blackberries</span></i></b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"> <o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">It is very important to buy certified virus-free plants. Your neighbors
will tempt you with offers of free raspberry plants when it's time to weed out
the suckers between their rows. Turn them down, or there's a chance you'll
start out with diseases you'll never get rid of. Root nematodes can also get
started in your garden this way, and the nursery you buy from should be able to
guaran¬tee their stock to be free of these, too.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Planting time is early spring, except in Zone 6 and southward, where fall
or even late-winter planting is possible. You don't have to buy very many
plants of each variety, especially red raspberries. Keep in mind that in a few
years you'll be throwing out extras. A dozen plants, spaced 3 feet apart, will
soon give you a large harvest, with each foot of row producing about a quart of
berries. Hence, plant blackberries and black raspberries about 4 feet apart,
trailing blackberries 5-6 feet apart. <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">If I'm planting more than one row I make sure that the rows are pretty
far apart a good 10 feet is best. When I'm pruning or picking I like to be sure
that no wayward canes will reach out and grab me from behind. If you are using
a trellis system you can space the rows more closely. Make sure that the roots
do not dry out between the times of buy them and the time you put them in the
ground. <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">And moisten your plant holes. Moreover, plant raspberries a few inches
deeper than they were growing in the nursery, blackberries at about the same
level. Cut red raspberries and blackberries back to 6 inches, but cut black
raspberries back to ground level as a precaution against disease. Then water
the plants some more.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Growing</span></i></b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"> <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">for
Raspberries and Blackberries</b><o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">It is very important to give all bramble fruits a constant water supply
while they are growing and especially when they are forming fruit. A good thick
mulch of an organic material such as salt hay will help a lot. It will also
keep weeds from working their way into the berry plants' root systems. In
addition, mulch will keep you from having to cultivate the soil. This is an
important advantage, as cultivating can nick the plants' shallow roots. Which
in the case of red raspberries can promote excess suckering? <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">But even with mulch, you should watch soil moisture. If it's dry weather
and a crop is ripening, laying a soaker hose along the rows will definitely increase
your yield. Top dress each year in early spring with at least a shovelful of
compost or rotted manure for every foot of row, or apply a handful of commercial
fertilizer such as 10-10-10 to the same area. The most important job in growing
bramble fruits is keeping the plants properly pruned so that the bed does not
become an impenetrable tangle of thorny canes. Each berry type has a different
way of run rampant, but fill rampant it will.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Red and yellow raspberries, doesn’t branch much but they do send up lots
of canes. Every year in early spring you should go out to the raspberry patch,
wearing a long-sleeved shirt and leather gloves, and prune out any winterkilled
canes at ground level. Then cut hack all the remaining canes in about chest
height. You will see what remains of the little berry clusters after the
herrios have been removed. Stole let the job go until winter or early spring,
you'll still be able to distinguish the old canes because they are darker, with
peeling bark. Any part of the plant that looks diseased should be removed at
whatever time you spot it.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">1 don't bother to use any kind of a trellising system with red or yellow
raspberries, because the stiff canes support themselves so Well. I use the
hedge-mw method, just letting the row fill in with new plants until it gets
about I V: to 2 feet wide. Any wider than that, and it's hard to match and
pick. Every spring, I pull up all the suckers that come between the rows and
later in the season too, as they appear. It is also a good idea to thin the
plants within the rows, pulling up some of the new canes so that the remaining
canes are about 6 inches apart.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Some gardeners do use a trellis sys-tem for raspberries, either because
they find them easier to pick this way, or because they're short of space.
Trellised rows can be as close together as 5 feet. Keep in mind, though, that
the farther apart they are the better the air circulation, and the less chance
of disease. You can use a system similar to the four-arm system for grapes. Or
you can box the vines by running wires on either side of a thick wooden post,
trapping the vines between the wires. Also nail 2-foot crosspieces to the
posts, as on a telephone pole, to make a wider box. You can also just place
metal stakes 2 feet apart and string wires along those. Brace the end posts to
keep them front bending.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Black raspberries don’t sucker freely. Their way of running amok is to
bend over their long canes so that the tips root in the soil between your rows.
If you let them do this, pretty soon you won't have any rows, just solid berry
bushes. Cut off the new canes to about 2 feet tall in midsummer. They will
cause them to form lateral branches, which will bear fruit next year. In early
spring cut back each of those lateral branches to about 12 inches long. <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Then after harvest cut back the canes that have fruited, just as you do
with red raspberries. If you prune them this way you can keep the plants fairly
short and erect, so you shouldn't need to trellis them. Thin the rows as
needed, and pull up any plants growing between them.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Ever-bearing raspberries bear the first year, in fall, at the tips of the
canes. It you want a second crop, cut off the tips after harvest. Then the
following season they'll bear on the uncut portion in early summer. Then cut
back the whole cane after it finishes fruiting. Both crops will be smaller than
that produced by ordinary summer-bearing raspberries. To get one big fall crop
instead and simplify your pruning job as well cut all the canes back to the
ground after the fall harvest.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">If you're growing blackberries, then cut the first-year canes hack to 3
feet in midsummer to encourage lateral branches, which will bear fruit. The In
late winter or early spring cut each lateral branch to about half its length. So,
after harvesting and cut back at soil level canes that have borne fruit. Thin
the new canes so that they are about 6 inches apart. Whether or not you trellis
black berries depends on what type they are. If they have erect canes and you
prune them well, they can stand alone like raspberries. <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">If they are trailing or semi trailing, they’ll need some kind of support.
You can bunch the canes together and tie them to stout stakes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But they'll enjoy better air circulation if
you train them on wires. Either use the four-armed system mentioned for grapes.
And also trying a number of canes to each wire and letting a few trails along
the ground as well. You can also use the box system. With trailing varieties
you'll have to tie the canes to whatever support you use.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Propagating new bramble plants is easy. Do it at the time you would normally
plant them in your area. For red raspberries just dig up some suckers and
replant them. For black raspberries bend a cane over and bury the tip in a
pocket of enriched soil, anchoring the tip with a rock or a bent wire just as
you do with a stem you are layering. Blackberries can be propagated by
replanting suckers, by rooting the tips of canes. Or by digging up some roots
on the edge of an established clump and replanting them. With all these
methods, cut the stems back to the appropriate height when you replant.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Pests and Diseases<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">There is a long list of diseases of bramble fruits, though yours may
escape all of them, especially in cool climates. Fortunately there are a number
of things you can do to keep berries healthy, even in areas where diseases are
common. First, buy new, clean stock. Remove all plant debris winterkilled
stems, canes that have home fruit, and any diseased parts of the plant as
promptly as possible, and either burn the debris or cart it away. Don't leave
it lying around the property, even in the compost heap. <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Remove all wild bramble plants from the property. Try to provide the
plants with good air circulation by choosing the right site, pruning and
thinning the canes, and trellising them if necessary. Provide good water
drainage for the roots. Feed, water and mulch as needed to keep the plants
vigorous, but avoid giving them excessive nitrogen. Finally, seek out varieties
that resist specific diseases that are prevalent where you live. <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Some diseases to watch for are mosaic, which makes leaves yellow and mottled.
Botrytis cane wilt which makes new canes wilt, verticillium wilt, which causes
canes to wilt suddenly in hot, dry weather. Anthracnose produces purplish spots
on the leaves then grayish growth on the stems powdery mildew. It covers the
leaves with whitish powder; orange rust shows up as bright orange pustules on the
undersides of the leaves. Leaf curlvirus makes the leaves dark green and
tightly curled; and spur blight, which produces brown spots on the canes. <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Foil hungry birds with plastic netting if they're getting too much of
your crop. If you have lots of berries and pick often you may not find birds a big
problem. The netting can be draped over the plants, but it is hard to remove for
pruning and picking that way. So you may want to erect a lightweight wooden or
metal frame to support it. This can be either box-shaped or constructed like a frame
house. <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Japanese beetles bother raspberries, pick them off or use milky spore
disease Hose off aphids, or spray them with insecticidal soap they can transmit
diseases. Prune out canes infested with borers and remove plants with galls that
indicate crown borers, Fruit worms. Which eat the buds and the berries, can be
sprayed with rotenone; the soil should then be cultivated around the plants in
late summer and early fall to keep the worms from overwintering there as pupae.
A few raspberry varieties, such as 'Purple Royalty,' are insect resistant.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Harvest</span></i></b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"> <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Raspberries
and Blackberries</b><o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Pick berries only when they are ripe, but don't let them sit on the bush
too long. Pick at least twice a week when they are bearing. Be careful not to
squeeze the berries; just pull them off the stem gently. (Raspberry cores will
stay on the stems.) Keep your pail or basket in the shade as you pick, and
don't let the berries get more than a few inches deep in the container or
they'll squash. Put in the refrigerator until you're ready to use them.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Varieties of Raspberries and Blackberries</span></i></b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">For summer-bearing red raspberries, the old standby 'Latham' is fine, but
there are other good choices too. 'Newburgh' is vigorous, hardy, productive and
disease resistant, with a big berry. 'Canby' and the very large 'Thornless Red
Mammoth' have practically no thorns, for easy picking `Reveille,' Sunrise' and the
huge 'Titan' arc extra early. <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">'Taylor' is hardy, vigorous and especially fine tasting. 'Willamette,' a
large, dark red berry, is recommended for the west coast, and the vigorous
'Dorman Red' is the one to grow in the south. The ever bearing ‘Fallgold’ is
the most popular yellow variety. Of the ever-bearing reds, 'Heritage' is the
most universally grown, but the hardy, disease resistant ‘Fall Red' is well
worth trying. 'Scepter' and 'Indian Summer' also have good disease resistance.
Popular black raspberries include the vigorous, upright standby 'Bristol' and
'Black Hawk,' which is both disease and heat resistant. <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Especially cold hardy varieties are the large `Cumberland,' John
Robertson' and the disease-resistant `Jewel.' Allen' is sweeter than most. For
purples try the large, sweet 'Royalty,' which is hardy and both insect and
disease resistant. ‘BrandyWine’ is a good, fairly hardy, tart variety that
people favor for jams.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">`Lowden Sweet Purple' is anthracnose resistant
and almost seedless. Good erect blackberries for the south include 'Cheyenne'
and the sweet early ‘Rosborough’. ‘Darrow' and oily King' are hardy upright
varieties. ‘Boysenberry’ ‘Loganberry' and 'Lucretia Dewberry' are tasty
trailing varieties. Among the thorn less blackberries `Chester' and 'Hull’ are
especially hardy, and Black Satin and `Thorn free' especially disease
resistant. Moreover also try Thornless Boysenberry. Also Read: <a href="https://charismaticplanet.com/why-you-need-to-eat-more-vegetables/" target="_blank">Why You Need to Eat More Vegetables?</a></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"></span></i> </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><a href="https://charismaticplanet.com/raspberries-and-blackberries-together/" target="_blank">Source: CP</a></span></i></div>
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-74219209338340895992018-08-16T01:00:00.000-07:002018-08-16T01:12:58.830-07:00Growing Method of Broccoli<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="td-g-rec td-g-rec-id-content_inlineleft td_uid_9_5b752e9473f63_rand td_block_template_2 " style="text-align: justify;">
<em>I have a great respect for Broccoli
because it appreciates the cool climate in which we live. In a long,
cold spring, a summer with little sun, or a fall with no Indian summer,
there is always Broccoli and all it asks is that I keep up with the
picking. Gladly I can keep up with the picking and make a whole meal out
of Broccoli, olive oil and garlic. Our basic green broccoli, sometimes
called “sprouting broccoli” and ‘calabrese’ in Europe, came originally
from Italy. It makes a big plant with deep, spreading roots. Broccoli is
an edible green plant in the cabbage family whose large flowering head
is eaten as a vegetable.</em></div>
<div class="td-g-rec td-g-rec-id-content_inlineleft td_uid_9_5b752e9473f63_rand td_block_template_2 " style="text-align: justify;">
<em><br /></em></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em>The big broccoli “bunch” that you
buy in the grocery store, really an immature flower head, is usually
only the beginning for the home usually only the beginning for the home
gardener. After the central cluster is cut back, side shoots develop
that can be back, side shoots develop that can be harvested for a long
time if the summer is not blistering hot. In warm-summer climates the
tight buds will “rice,” or open as flowers too soon, thus ending the
crop, so southern gardeners plant at all crop that will bear well into
the winter instead.</em></div>
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</div>
<h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<em><strong><u>Select Site for Broccoli</u></strong></em></h3>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em>Choose a spot with good drainage and
air circulation where broccoli and other members of the genus Brassica
have not grown for several years. Full sun is nice, but partial shade
will also sustain broccoli and can even retard bolting. The plot need
not be large. Even though the plants get fairly sizable (2-2 1/2 feet
tall and spread) each one produces a lot of broccoli. Six plants in a
4-foot-by-6-foot plot is a good number to start with. Passionate
broccoli eaters will want more.</em></div>
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</div>
<h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<em><strong><u>Select Soil for Broccoli</u></strong></em></h3>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em>Soil should be fairly rich to begin
with. As a leaf-and-stem crop, broccoli needs plenty of nitrogen. I dig
in a shovelful of well-rotted manure for. Each plant you could
substitute a shovelful of compost or a small handful of 10-10-10.
Calcium is important; you can make sure it is there by adding crushed
limestone. Keep in mind that this will also raise the pH—something you
would want to do anyway if your soil is acid. The ideal for broccoli is a
neutral 7.0. It is even more important to add organic matter to the
soil, to help it retain the steady moisture supply that broccoli needs.</em></div>
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</div>
<h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<em><strong><u>Planting Broccoli</u></strong></em></h3>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em>In planting broccoli there are
several schedules you can follow. Start seeds indoors in a sunny but
cool place, six or seven weeks before the last average frost date. And
set the seedlings out as 5- to 6- inch plants, two or three weeks before
the last expected frost. Or you can sow directly in the garden; in a
cool climate. So you can do this a month or two before the last frost;
in a warm one do it in very early spring. Usually broccoli is grown from
seedlings transplanted into the garden. Either ones you grow yourself
or ones you purchase in a nursery.</em></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em><br /></em></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em>After preparing the planting holes
as described above, set the transplants an inch or two lower in the
ground than they were in their pots or flats, watering them and firming
the soil around them. Cover the young plants if you think there might be
a really hard freeze. Though, the space seedlings about 18 inches apart
each way if you are using a grid, or 18 inches apart in rows with 2-3
feet between the rows. For direct seeding in the garden, sow several
seeds in hills and later snip off all but the strongest plant in each.
Space the hills the same distance apart as you would transplants.</em></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em><br /></em></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em>Cutworms like young broccoli plants,
so it is a good idea to use collars to roil them whichever planting
method you use. Where summers are hot, people seed in a second crop in
late spring or early summer. That will mature alter danger of ricing is
past, or they sow a later crop for fall harvest. A crop can even be sown
in fall and wintered over for a spring harvest if winters are mild. </em></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em>To save space the early crops can be
inter-planted with something else if the plants are wide enough apart.
Fall crops are seeded in July or August. Good mulch will help the plants
retain moisture. But in times of drought give them a good long soaking
with a hose if the soil is dry. Extra enrichment is really needed only
when you’re trying to hasten maturity to beat the heat. In this case a
side dressing of blood meal or fish emulsion soaked in (not dug in)
helps.</em></div>
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</div>
<h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<em><strong><u>Pests and Diseases</u></strong></em></h3>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em>The only pest that ever bothered my
broccoli was the small green cabbage worm, which is very common. It
never did much damage to the plants, but it had a way of turning up as a
surprise garnish at the dinner table. Well camouflaged by its color,
even after picking, the worm turns white when cooked. “Good protein!” a
well-brought-up dinner guest may exclaim diplomatically, but unless your
diners have an unusually good sense of humor, you’ll want to check
‘carefully for worms before cooking or soak the broccoli in salt water
to kill and dislodge them.</em></div>
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<em><br /></em></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em>If they really chew up your plants,
catch them early next year by applying rotenone or BT when you see the
cabbage white. Moreover, butterfly fluttering above them, though you
might prefer author Catherine Osgood poster’s method. She goes out and
swats the butterflies with a tennis racket. Spray off aphids, and foil
root maggots with tar-paper mats. Most hugs won’t bother your late
crops. Diseases like blackleg, black rot and clubroot are best prevented
by crop rotation. In the case of clubroot (puny, yellowed plants with
misshapen roots), boost the pH to 7.0 with some lime.</em></div>
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</div>
<h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<em><strong><u>Harvest Broccoli</u></strong></em></h3>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em>When the first nice bunch has formed
in the center of the plant (it won’t be huge, like the one in the
store, unless it is a large-head variety), cut it off at 4-6 inches with
a sharp knife. New ones will form in the leaf axils around it, and all
over the lower stalk. If you don’t keep picking, the green heads will
send up tall yellow flowers. A row of blossoming broccoli looks
beautiful. </em></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em><br /></em></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em>But is embarrassing to a good
gardener, for it means that the plant will stop producing edible stalks.
So keep up with the picking, even if you cannot keep up with the eating
and freezing. You can cook and eat stalks with flowers that have
started open. But the opened buds turn brownish when cooked and look
almost as unappetizing as cooked cabbage worms.</em></div>
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</div>
<h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<em><strong><u>Broccoli Varieties </u></strong></em></h3>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em>The popular broccoli varieties are
‘Waltham 29,’ the early `DeCicco,’ and ‘Calabrese’ (`Green Sprouting’).
Most people prefer the ones with good side-shoot production, not the
ones that produce just a one-shot head like the ones sold in stores,
although sometimes this is exactly what you want, either for a quick
spring crop before a hot summer, or to make freezing the crop more
efficient. ‘Green Comet Hybrid’ is a good fast maturing variety for this
purpose. </em></div>
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<em><br /></em></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em>‘Premium Crop’ is a good single-crop
variety. ‘Green Duke’ is a good variety for the south. Another kind of
broccoli that is recently very popular is broccoli raabor raaba or rabb
or di rapa, depending on how you spell it. This is grown by direct
seeding in rows or blocks. It never forms a head at all, just small
branches. Both these and the young leaves are tender and delicious. Also
Read: <a href="http://charismaticplanet.com/sapota-fruits/" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Amazing Health Benefits Of Sapota Fruits</a></em><br />
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<em><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKGAhNFPYZNBvx1lJ6kIUSElpQSvR9scCGsEPp91J1hPp2qKqW-TlfFrR51WCm-Lu6VUTOEHW84UhFwEF_wga_B8GGVEFQSFCFTayHnSTr9t18qK2JUbyFUUCP-vLGnT5guWYFFO9-eTI/s1600/benefits-of-broccoli.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="553" data-original-width="830" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKGAhNFPYZNBvx1lJ6kIUSElpQSvR9scCGsEPp91J1hPp2qKqW-TlfFrR51WCm-Lu6VUTOEHW84UhFwEF_wga_B8GGVEFQSFCFTayHnSTr9t18qK2JUbyFUUCP-vLGnT5guWYFFO9-eTI/s640/benefits-of-broccoli.jpg" width="640" /></a></em></div>
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<em><a href="http://charismaticplanet.com/broccoli/" target="_blank">Source: CP</a></em></div>
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-84461677518678762302018-05-06T00:39:00.002-07:002018-05-06T00:39:31.694-07:00How to Grow Strawberries<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">In growing strawberries you must
know what to expect. Indeed you will get luscious red fruits for short cakes
and pies, and in a lot less time than you would have to wait for tree fruits.
Yes, strawberries are vigorous perennial plants that grow like crazy with very
little encouragement. They take up relatively little space in the home garden. But
your venture will be disappointing unless you acquire a bit of strawberry
savvy. </span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Established beds that are left to
fend for themselves will have all sorts of problems. They may suffer from bugs,
diseases and weeds that creep in. The plants will become overcrowded and will
overrun the rest of the garden. Old plants will, over time, bear less and less
heavily; their crowns will push up out of the soil and be winter injured. And
what you assumed would be strawberry fields forever will be nothing but a
strawberry mess. To prevent all this from happening you will need to put a
little effort into managing those beds. You may even decide that growing
strawberries as an annual crop is the way to go. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Types of Strawberries</span></u></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Therefore, there are four
different kinds of strawberries, each of them wonderful for different reasons.
The classics strawberry plants bears for a few weeks in June or earlier in warm
climates and then quits. Strawberry festivals were inspired by this kind,
because the output during those weeks is so great that you either needs to bake
them, can them, freeze them or open up your doors and feed the whole town. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">“Ever-Bearing” strawberries, the
second kind, don’t really bear all season. They produce two crops, the first at
the usual time and the second in late summer. Neither crop is as large as that
of June bearing plant, nor do ever bearing types tend to be a little less
hardy, but for gardeners who want two modest harvests rather than one big one
they are just right. “Day-neutral” strawberries are a new development. They are
less sensitive and to the difference between long and short days than the first
two types. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">They bear most of the summer,
even as days lengthen, letting up only in the very hottest weather. These are
perfect if you are more interested in a steady supply of strawberries than an
avalanche. Day-neutral varieties are often plant in fall and harvested the
following spring even in relatively cool climates. Give this a try even if you
live up north and see how it works for you. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Finally there are the “Alpine”
strawberries or fraises des bois-tiny little elongated fruits from Europe that
are similar to the little wild strawberries that grow in the United States, but
are bigger and easier to pick. You have to grow a great many plants to have
more than a sprinkling of fruit to top a bowl of cereal or a whipped cream
covered cake or a pie, but a great many Alpine strawberries plants is not a bad
thing to have. You have had excellent luck growing them from seed. They do not
spread by runners the way other strawberries do and so require less managing.
They are also very pretty and can be used as decorative edgings in flower
gardens as well as for a food crop. Best of all, they bear all season long. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Select a Site </span></u></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">First of all, you need a sunny
spot for strawberries. It should also be a warm one, to support the plants
escape late spring frosts. These can nip the blossoms, turning their center
black and preventing berries from forming. Thus when selecting a gentle south
facing slope not a pocket that traps cold air. You need a spot with good
drainage or the plants will rot and get diseases. If your drainage is not
excellent consider growing strawberries in raise beds. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The vegetable garden is a good
place for strawberries if you can spare even as little as 60 square feet. You
can also grow them among fruit trees as long as the berries get enough sun. You
might plant two rows of fruit trees with an avenue between them and a path down
the center, then edge the path in strawberries. Also, if your space is very
limited, you might grow a small crop spaced intensively in a raised bed or in
one of those strawberry barrels or pyramids you see advertised. While these look
charming on a terrace, however, don’t expect the kind of yield you would get
from a bona-fide strawberry patch. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Soil Required for Strawberry</span></u></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">In addition to needing a well
drained site, strawberries need soil that is fertile and very generously
supplied with organic matter. Well-rotted manure, thoroughly dug in, will
accomplish both purposes. The pH should be a bit on the acid side 5.5 to 6.5.
Removing all weeds from the site is of utmost importance, especially if you
want to keep a bed going for a number of years. Like many gardeners, you will
learn the hard way what perennial weeds, particularly grasses, can do to a
strawberry bed. It is best not to plant on a spot where grasses or hay have
been growing recently; instead choose a more established garden area. You might
even prepare a spot by growing cover crops and turning them under for a year or
two before planting. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Planting a Strawberries</span></u></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Strawberries are normally planted
in early spring, although in warm climates they can be planted in fall. Fall
planting will give you a crop the first spring. Strawberries are available at
most garden centers. Where they are grown in flats, just like vegetables,
however the most inexpensive way to buy them is bare root, in bundles.
Strawberries may carry viruses that will ruin the crop and be hard to eliminate
from your garden, so unless you have a very good local source, order
strawberries by mail from a reputable company that will certify them as disease
free stock. One year old plants will usually bear just as soon as order ones,
and they are cheaper. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Well, you can start with 25
plants, since you do have to fuss with strawberries a bit its best not to
overextend yourself. In any case, 25 plants will perhaps be all you will need
because each mature plant will produce as much as a quart of berries. If you
find you enjoy strawberry growing a lot and want to freeze them or make jam,
add more plants of several different varieties in subsequent years. If the
plants arrive before planting time, put them in the refrigerator with the
plastic wrapping open, and keep the packing around the roots slightly moist.
Moreover try to plant them as soon as possible, or at least heel them into the
ground. Take special care not to let the roots dry out any time. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">When your soil is thoroughly
prepared, mark out some nice straight rows. Although there are several
different ways to arrange a strawberry plot, depending on how you want to
manage the subsidiary plants that form on runner, they all start with straight
rows. If you watch the way strawberry plants grow, you will see that the
original plant that you put in the ground, called the mother plant, soon puts
out long thin stems; these are the runners.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>When they get to be about 9 inches long they turn up at the tips and put
down roots, forming daughter plants. If left to their own devices the daughters
send out their own runners and produce granddaughters and pretty soon what you
have is a thick, unproductive ground cover. So some form of birth control is
always needed with strawberries. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">If you are laissez-faire kind of
gardener, try the matted-row system. The plants are set out about 18 inches
apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart and are allowed to send out as many runners as
they want. To keep the space between the rows from filling up with plants, go
to your path after harvest and get rid of the outermost plants on each side of
a row, either by removing granddaughters individually by snipping the runners
and digging up the little plants, or just by<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>running a mechanical tiller between the rows. When you are done, the row
should be only a foot or two wide. It is also a good idea to remove some of the
mother plants from within the row. Leave the newest ones, which will bear more
vigorously the following season. If you remove as much as 75% of the
vegetation, your patch will be the better for it. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">If you are a meticulous kind of
gardener, you will like the spaced-row system. Here you set the strawberry
plants a t least 18 inches apart and remove some of the runners from each so
that there only four to six of them spaced at least six inches apart. Some rather
compulsive growers even reposition the daughters to make the spacing more even.
In future years, keep removing older plants so there is always at least six
inches of space around each of the remaining ones. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The last method is for tidy
gardeners, it is commonly and rather misleadingly called the “hill system”. So
no true hills are involved, however you simply set the plants fairly close
together 12 inches apart in every direction if fine, 18 if you have plenty of
space and remove any and all runners that form. This forces the mother plant to
put its energy into fruiting rather than making runners, though it will form
multiple crowns. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">You can make single rows, or
space the plants equidistant from each other in a grid but don’t make the patch
so wide that you can’t reach into it easily from the outer edge. If you have to
step into your patch at picking time you will squash a lot of precious berries.
Eventually the mother clumps will get too dense, so if you are growing your own
replacement plants you will want to let just some runners grow and form new
plants. This method works particularly well for the day neutral strawberry
varieties, which tend to produce fewer runners anyway.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Moreover, whatever kind of
spacing you use for strawberries always set the plants into the ground the same
way. The roots should be spread out but pointing down ward. The best way to do
this is to dig a cone shaped hole<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>with a
smaller cone of earth in the center of it, then drape the roots over the earth
cone, rather like the way day lilies are planted, but with only one plant per
hole. B e absolutely sure that the crown the place where the roots join the
stem is exactly at the soil surface too deep, and the crown will rot; too
shallow, and the roots will dry out. Also be sure to firm the soil well around
the roots. Water thoroughly. If your soil is not very rich you can use a weak
liquid fertilizer solution at planting time. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Growing Method <o:p></o:p></span></u></i></b></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The first year, little spring
planted strawberries will produce some flowers but these should be pinched off
so that the plant will put its energy into growing and producing a fine crop
for next year. Mulch between the plants and between rows will help conserve
moisture and keep down the weeds, and winter mulch laid over the plants may be
necessary. You can use the same material for both purposes something light such
as straw or salt hay. Apply the winter covering about Thanksgiving time, or
whenever hard frosts are a regular occurrence, and then brush it aside to
expose the plants at blossom time. Don’t take the mulch away, though leave it
next to the plants and use it for a quick emergency cover if late frosts
threaten or fro covering the ground under ripening berries to keep them clean
and rot free. </span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Moreover, top dress the plants
once a year at blossom time with rotted manure, compost, or a balanced fertilizer
like 15-15-15. If the weather is dry, make sure the plants get an inch of water
per week, especially when flowering and forming fruit. And be sure to keep up
with the weeds, removing them while they are still tiny, especially if you
haven’t mulched. With June bearing strawberries it is also a good idea to cut
off the foliage right after the harvest. Timing is important either cut plants
down as soon as your crop is finished or not at all, otherwise there won’t be
enough time for new leaves to grow and nourish the plants for the rest of the
season. In a small patch you can cut plants down with sheers; in a large one
use a scythe, a sickle or a power lawn mower set so that<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the plants are cut back to 1 ½ inches tall.
Then fertilize and water deeply. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">One decision you will have to
make no matter what growing method you use is how long to keep a patch going.
If there are a lot of disease problems in your area you may find that starting
a brand new crop in a different part of the garden every year will keep the
plants much healthier. But you will always need to have two patches going at
once. While one patch is producing another one will be growing to replace it
the next year. It’s up to you how you manage your patches. If your plants never
get disease and you are not much interested in trying new varieties, you may
prefer to just keep the same patch going by removing the older plants each
year. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Pests and Diseases</span></u></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">You will assuredly have some
problems with birds eating your ripe strawberries, and possibly with chipmunks
as well. If your crop is big you may not lose enough for that to make much of a
difference, but if it is a small one you should protect it. Birds can be
deterred by plastic netting, cheesecloth or the agricultural fabric. These will
provide some measure of protection against chipmunks too, as will a series of
chicken wire covered wooden frames. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">White grubs in the soil, especially
those of June bugs, can eat the plants roots. If your plants wilt suddenly even
when it’s not dry, pull one up and see if the root system looks damaged. The
best way to deal with grubs is to avoid planting in areas where sod has
recently been growing. If you still get them, try pouring a weak kerosene
solution one tablespoon of kerosene to a cup of water on the soil around the
plants. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Moreover, rotating your
strawberries with other crops will help keep both insect and disease problems
under control, but take care that you don’t plant them where tomatoes and other
Solanaceae have grown recently or melons, raspberries, mint or roses. These can
all harbor verticillium wilt, which wilts plants and stunts their growth. It is
also very important when growing strawberries to remove all plant debris from
the patch, because it can rot and harbor fungus disease. This includes berries
that you don’t pick because they are overripe or have been nibbled or otherwise
damaged. Toss these into a separate basket and destroy them.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Another disease to watch out for
is red stele, a fungus that rots the strawberries roots. Both verticillium and
red stele are cool climate, cool weather diseases. Botrytis fungus and other
rot diseases are best fought by good sanitation and thorough picking. Virus
infected plants must be destroyed, and the place where they have gown should
not be used for strawberries for a number of years. In fact it’s best to wait
awhile before growing strawberries anywhere following a virus attack. Virus diseases
are difficult to identify, so it is advisable to consult your extension service
if your plants are doing poorly and you can’t pinpoint the problem yourself.
Fortunately there are now varieties that resist strawberry diseases have noted
some with good general diseases resistance. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Harvesting Your Crop</span></u></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Strawberries can be harvested the
second year after planting. With June bearing ones this will mean waiting for
about fourteen months for your first crop, but in climates where fall planting
is safe your crop should be ready the following June. Wait for the berries to
be fully red, not green at the tip, before you pick them. Resist the temptation
to beat the birds to the strawberries by picking them almost ripe. They will
not ripe well off the vine. Strawberries, despite their bright color, can be
hard to find; lift the foliage up to see those hiding underneath. Never grasp
the berry itself when you pick, because it is easily bruised instead pinch or
snip the tem. Collect and store the berries in shallow containers, in a layer
no more than 5 inches deep or the weight will crush those on the bottom. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Varieties:</span></u></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">There are so many strawberry
varieties available that it is sometimes hard to know which to choose, but here
are some guidelines. The most popular every bearing strawberry is “Ozark Beauty”
good for most regions. Some other cold hardy ever bearing varieties are “Fort
Laramie” “Superfection” and “Ogallala”. Those with more disease resistance than
‘Ozark Beauty’ include ‘Ogallala’ and ‘Quinault’. The best day-neutral
varieties are ‘Tristar’ and ‘Tribute’ both fairly disease resistant. There are
also so many varieties available, but it is highly recommended to consult your
Extension Service for about your specific area. </span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmAiwLtVucXqubw1TieYNCyCsTNPBddI-YRWSvEox2a3UglbZEaA1fTUzauwnJNp8Mu0Os8-HDJMdhCrQRE6FJr1CvkJMa11Vy3TG2L1LndsaNKser90yvvdi_E2gaifyxtYaKldc3p9A/s1600/strawberries-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmAiwLtVucXqubw1TieYNCyCsTNPBddI-YRWSvEox2a3UglbZEaA1fTUzauwnJNp8Mu0Os8-HDJMdhCrQRE6FJr1CvkJMa11Vy3TG2L1LndsaNKser90yvvdi_E2gaifyxtYaKldc3p9A/s640/strawberries-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-56986962779573088292017-05-17T05:40:00.002-07:002017-05-17T05:41:15.051-07:00Top 13 Weird Furits<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">13. Sugar Apple</span></span></b></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">The sugar apple is a strange fruit, which taste is just like
a pineapple-banana combo. The fruit is looking like an overgrown pinecone; the
scaly, green skin is filled with an edible custardy pulp. It’s a good source of
fiber and contains antioxidants and B vitamins.” Therefore, it contains low-calorie
treat in farmers markets, gourmet grocery stores in the Spanish markets. Sugar-apple
is high in energy, an excellent source of vitamin C and manganese, a good
source of thiamine and vitamin B6, and provides vitamin B2, B3 B5, B9, iron,
magnesium, phosphorus and potassium in fair quantities. The fruit is alike in
sweetness to the sugar-apple but has a very different taste like pineapple. The
arrangement of seeds is in spaced rows, with the fruit's flesh filling most of
the fruit and making grooves for the seeds, instead of the flesh's occurring
only around seeds. <a href="http://www.charismaticplanet.com/top-13-strange-fruits-world/" target="_blank">Source: Charismaticplanet</a></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjimpOUITVNUxz_FJ9gSq2jcrMoW4rlAycVROlPzwU3ix3bkuZzikPHfjTc8vVQgygbhNwro2LKfyW77Q2873boaCyWT8-8WL2FvFPjxWp7VWcY0Ne8nQXw_XmwBp7iJJHG0Pk6-DLv3fQ/s1600/Sugar+Apple.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjimpOUITVNUxz_FJ9gSq2jcrMoW4rlAycVROlPzwU3ix3bkuZzikPHfjTc8vVQgygbhNwro2LKfyW77Q2873boaCyWT8-8WL2FvFPjxWp7VWcY0Ne8nQXw_XmwBp7iJJHG0Pk6-DLv3fQ/s640/Sugar+Apple.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">12. Rambutan</span></span></b></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">This hairy fruit looks like a sea creature than a fruit, but
don’t let its spines and leathery, red skin fool you. Rambutan taste is very
sweet and mildly acidic like grapes. This delicious fruit is full of vitamin C
and iron, the fruit’s translucent flesh resembles a boiled egg and is similar
to a lychee in texture. This fruit can be found in Asian market and eat it
right from the rind, but discard the single seed are toxic. However, in canned
form, you can mix it right into a fruit salad for a tropical twist.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGqTPpcRZJjOXD5sJzAWDS8kQ7aQfi93jSJb6PykLrPfp-1nVAzvlYnou_s871ogccRcEsFVOeIo_g23oXLoQcPnrAcr7CyhrPG7avPZo4RLOaoDuwfw08W7G_635C8qe_Xwjfys9CpoU/s1600/Rambutan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGqTPpcRZJjOXD5sJzAWDS8kQ7aQfi93jSJb6PykLrPfp-1nVAzvlYnou_s871ogccRcEsFVOeIo_g23oXLoQcPnrAcr7CyhrPG7avPZo4RLOaoDuwfw08W7G_635C8qe_Xwjfys9CpoU/s640/Rambutan.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<b><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">11. Noni</span></span></b></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">This is a favourite fruit of juice lovers, because it is only
for sipping.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Therefore, only a half cup
of Hawaiian noni juice has 15 calories and 1.5 grams of sugar, which is low for
fruit juice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This fruit also contains over
50% of the daily recommended value of vitamin C.” Pick up the nutrient-packed
fruit in juice and powder form at health food stores and drugstores like
Walgreens particularly during your period. “It was usually used in Polynesian
cultures to treat menstrual cramps; preliminary animal studies have also shown the
juice of this fruit is linked to cancer prevention and treatment.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ffsUimx5W_lftisN2HkniFZlqXW9_aohDDpaSZCRjzoH6IxszqxrH1gyapuGYXHk0mvrYRIBM12pAbV2RIT7yDwZhjLBBoSSlVcyqIhc7Hxj9tMr-ns5j2yr3lTuwmQb7PjEm4ex0YM/s1600/Noni.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ffsUimx5W_lftisN2HkniFZlqXW9_aohDDpaSZCRjzoH6IxszqxrH1gyapuGYXHk0mvrYRIBM12pAbV2RIT7yDwZhjLBBoSSlVcyqIhc7Hxj9tMr-ns5j2yr3lTuwmQb7PjEm4ex0YM/s640/Noni.jpg" width="596" /></a></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
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</span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">10. Annatto</span></span></b></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">The spiny, heart-shaped fruit looks edible, partially, when its
seeds can be eaten, and they’re loaded with antioxidants, including
tocotrienols, a form of Vitamin E which has been shown to fight cancer-forming
cells. Annatto is an orange-red condiment and food coloring derived from the
seeds of the achiote tree , often used to impart a yellow or orange color to
foods, but sometimes also for its flavor and aroma. Its scent is described as
"slightly peppery with a hint of nutmeg" and flavor as "slightly
nutty, sweet and peppery". To reap the benefits, look for the seeds whole
or in powder form in the Latin food section of the supermarket or at Latin
markets, and enjoy their nutty, peppery taste as a seasoning on meats, soups
and rice dishes and in baked goods. But the super seeds have another purpose:
They give butter its yellow color.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB71TeAk9B0l6WGau8U6aXnOiikAWLZtl485izj7_UQrPZotY__dyYdZGamfNAxBXiUeiuK9_YgfEwGy0rEUQCeJEQFGeWgfUr-uMxN-DcmQiEoOwIGju3o4tGxyfkKxjDtDFC59pP-ZM/s1600/Annatto+Benefits+And+Nutrition+Of+Achiote+%2528Annatto%2529+For+Health+%25284%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="550" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB71TeAk9B0l6WGau8U6aXnOiikAWLZtl485izj7_UQrPZotY__dyYdZGamfNAxBXiUeiuK9_YgfEwGy0rEUQCeJEQFGeWgfUr-uMxN-DcmQiEoOwIGju3o4tGxyfkKxjDtDFC59pP-ZM/s640/Annatto+Benefits+And+Nutrition+Of+Achiote+%2528Annatto%2529+For+Health+%25284%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<b><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">9: Jackfruit</span></span></b></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">If you’re a fan of bananas, you’ll go bananas over jackfruit.
Under its enormous, prickly, green exterior (it’s the largest fruit grown on a
tree), the jackfruit’s numerous bulbs have a sweet, buttery flavor. “It’s a
good source of vitamin C and one of the rare fruits rich in the B-complex group
of vitamins, which benefit memory and mood and can even ease migraines,” says
Dimitriou. “They also increase energy and diminish heart-disease risk.” When
cooked; add jackfruit, sold at Asian food markets, to jams and desserts. Or fry
them as chips.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNmN6Cwlk-ln-786G5a2zhbt9UQYcnhaV9NEHWfu7oSIXg3HeGTH0d7Rt4DwRlx_o__6CiRTC9WZu32URmhoVsNZ2ejdP-vsggFfod3KOK0wzDDbNLG90dNoH-5-JbEE6mdnrtLFAPsPg/s1600/open-jackfruit-showing-bulbs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNmN6Cwlk-ln-786G5a2zhbt9UQYcnhaV9NEHWfu7oSIXg3HeGTH0d7Rt4DwRlx_o__6CiRTC9WZu32URmhoVsNZ2ejdP-vsggFfod3KOK0wzDDbNLG90dNoH-5-JbEE6mdnrtLFAPsPg/s640/open-jackfruit-showing-bulbs.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">8: Horned Melon</span></span></b></div>
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</span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">This fruit has horn-like spines, hence named it “Horned Melon”.
It is also called Kiwano, Jelly Mellon, Hedged Gourd, Melano and KiwanoCucumis
metuliferus. The horned melon has orange skin/lime green with a refreshingly
fruity taste, and textures same to passionfruit or pomegranate or combination
of banana cucumber and lime. It is grown in the United States, Portugal, Italy,
Germany, Chile, Australia, and New Zealand. The fruit primarily used as a
snack, salad, salsa, cocktail and for decoration. Some also eat the peel, which
is very rich in vitamin C and dietary fiber. Moreover its health benefits
include high in Vitamin A, Beta Carotene and Magnesium, has high water content,
is good for weight loss and is packed with other vital minerals. The fruit can
be used in cooking, but when eaten raw, most suck out the pulp.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz5YvUvXPgIou81Baq_liuuVhYjJJEDfEmHN7mL_sYYeHmE3UptROiOVKGQRiMziH3y0iR7K6ucnxi7MfqrCFpsNW1APVwiXEp0xqfIGpiQ-57KlN9bFP58rkDrIB4vcFeU_wv4p4wFUw/s1600/Horned+Melon_Cucumis_metuliferus_Kiwano_anagoria.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz5YvUvXPgIou81Baq_liuuVhYjJJEDfEmHN7mL_sYYeHmE3UptROiOVKGQRiMziH3y0iR7K6ucnxi7MfqrCFpsNW1APVwiXEp0xqfIGpiQ-57KlN9bFP58rkDrIB4vcFeU_wv4p4wFUw/s640/Horned+Melon_Cucumis_metuliferus_Kiwano_anagoria.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<b><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">7: Carambola</span></span></b></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">Carambola or starfruit, is the fruit of Averrhoa carambola, a
species of tree native to the Philippines, Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam, Nepal,
India, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Mauritius and Seychelles. The fruit has prominent
longitudinal ridges, running down its sides usually five when cut in
cross-section, hence its name in cross section, it resembles a star. The entire
fruit is edible and is usually eaten out of hand. They may also be used in
cooking and can be made into relishes, preserves, and juice drinks. Carambola
is rich in antioxidants, potassium, and vitamin C; and low in sugar, sodium,
acid, and also a potent source of both primary and secondary polyphenolic
antioxidants.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE_cdrnDPnSP-iH64Bwkywkmx1azY7jVoPpE3K6lE5VyxMgRvtEUK5v4y2vYCnMU8Yu3TRpyRw9ASuFBX2gLg5N8sTwixDkXUdqhcKWhHxFYPoB9PGHOafvZvZRTSG0xlvYqBE5vsdk-g/s1600/Carambola+1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="452" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE_cdrnDPnSP-iH64Bwkywkmx1azY7jVoPpE3K6lE5VyxMgRvtEUK5v4y2vYCnMU8Yu3TRpyRw9ASuFBX2gLg5N8sTwixDkXUdqhcKWhHxFYPoB9PGHOafvZvZRTSG0xlvYqBE5vsdk-g/s640/Carambola+1.png" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<b><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">6: Pitaya (Dragon Fruit)</span></span></b></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">A pitaya is the fruit of several cactus species indigenous to
the Americas. Pitaya usually refers to fruit of the genus Stenocereus, while
pitahaya or dragon fruit refers to fruit of the genus Hylocereus. The sour
pitayas are a variety that is commonly eaten in the arid regions of the
Americas, refreshing, with juicier flesh and a stronger taste. Dragon fruit is
a tropical fruit that has become increasingly popular in recent years. People
enjoy it for its unique look and taste, and there’s evidence it may provide
health benefits. Dragon fruit is a low-calorie fruit that is high in fiber and
provides more than one-third of the RDI for vitamin C. Dragon fruit contains
several antioxidants that protect cells from damage. These include betalains,
hydroxycinnamates and flavonoids. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dragon
fruit may look exotic, but its flavors are similar to other fruits. Its taste
has been described as a slightly sweet cross between a kiwi and a pear. Dragon
fruit is easy to prepare and can be enjoyed on its own or paired with other
foods in healthy recipes.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpO0bTI7nxTMgHT1TVDT25S8oT07AG7-TKiHYLISSBCqYNLOVOboH7b9YwQBsuPDSNrQIiEx0kX1xOJhsq_OSni9TAylK804MwkK-2F58r716mlcbACFK2RkHMm6x6_friCn9tUiu99Eo/s1600/Pitaya_cross_section_ed2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="522" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpO0bTI7nxTMgHT1TVDT25S8oT07AG7-TKiHYLISSBCqYNLOVOboH7b9YwQBsuPDSNrQIiEx0kX1xOJhsq_OSni9TAylK804MwkK-2F58r716mlcbACFK2RkHMm6x6_friCn9tUiu99Eo/s640/Pitaya_cross_section_ed2.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">5: Guanábana or Soursop</span></span></b></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">The agressive looking guanábana contains a docile white
custard-like and headily perfumed flesh. It is usually made into a paste, ice
cream or agua fresca, but can be consumed as is. But be sure to buy a nice ripe
one. The flavour of the fruit has been described as a combination of strawberry
and pineapple, with sour citrus flavour notes contrasting with an underlying
creamy texture reminiscent of coconut or banana. Soursop is widely promoted as an
alternative cancer treatment, however, no medical evidence that it is
effective. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi25O7OnFPHUIAetJV1r1CEQUVS-Lbihr7cF_9aA6VPt-8gMymtPmjsLgC4rbIjkNySeYo3ZwlVlUmYiScz6H-i2Yap7A39dd_Uy4g4M0BV_MjFiIi2JSCLxbI-zOOXmI2GG9BgSxf4XdE/s1600/soursop.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi25O7OnFPHUIAetJV1r1CEQUVS-Lbihr7cF_9aA6VPt-8gMymtPmjsLgC4rbIjkNySeYo3ZwlVlUmYiScz6H-i2Yap7A39dd_Uy4g4M0BV_MjFiIi2JSCLxbI-zOOXmI2GG9BgSxf4XdE/s640/soursop.png" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">4: Passion Fruit</span></span></b></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">This fruit is native to South America, grown in green houses
to boost its flavor. It is usually found bright red in color but variations can
exist, you might also get to see them half green and half red and quite bulky
in size. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are two types to know
about, one is the poisonous sibling and the other as passionate as its name.
How natural is that, because it is cultivated commercially in tropical and
subtropical areas for its sweet, seedy fruit is a pepo, a type of berry, round
to oval, either yellow or dark purple at maturity, with a soft to firm, juicy
interior filled with numerous seeds. The fruit is both eaten and juiced;
passion fruit juice is often added to other fruit juices to enhance aroma. Passion
fruit flower is the national flower of Paraguay.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSt4K1Pm2KAR0J7AOptdQHDSs4KX_UU4in7FwA260xiJD0JHZ2shyphenhyphenguiksYDmqv7Y6BWbokgNnVy-nEn-4IQDMamg9j3xFq9HLlU3IaG_VeL9xWzr0qr1axwHBcrPO9bgq_3E1nx8BHTQ/s1600/Passion-Fruit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="547" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSt4K1Pm2KAR0J7AOptdQHDSs4KX_UU4in7FwA260xiJD0JHZ2shyphenhyphenguiksYDmqv7Y6BWbokgNnVy-nEn-4IQDMamg9j3xFq9HLlU3IaG_VeL9xWzr0qr1axwHBcrPO9bgq_3E1nx8BHTQ/s640/Passion-Fruit.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">3: Ackee</span></span></b></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">This is Jamaica’s national fruit. The seeds of this fruit
were bought from West Africa into Jamaica on a rumored slave ship and from then
on this has become the delicacy around the Caribbean. To eat this fruit, one
has to remove the black tops and cut open the fleshy yellow arils, because the
reddish region in between is very toxic. Ackee you are very tricky! The fruit
is pear-shaped, however when it ripens, it turns from green to a bright red to
yellow-orange, and splits open to reveal three large, shiny black seeds, each
partly surrounded by soft, creamy or spongy, white to yellow flesh the aril. The
dried seeds, fruit, bark, and leaves are used medicinally.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1IKueb8rbMa02JER5I7qm2Cv1ADUAnUCEp2toNyXnFpOmGR5Xy_wngV49OrcDTZNfGKzG5p-yTFAtrwm3qtIRL0XgM7c_2N-SXerRdHRawemMcXVkiEOZj-XSicnI6aJ4aCWHNhv4pns/s1600/Ackee+Jamaica_Ackee.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1IKueb8rbMa02JER5I7qm2Cv1ADUAnUCEp2toNyXnFpOmGR5Xy_wngV49OrcDTZNfGKzG5p-yTFAtrwm3qtIRL0XgM7c_2N-SXerRdHRawemMcXVkiEOZj-XSicnI6aJ4aCWHNhv4pns/s640/Ackee+Jamaica_Ackee.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">2: Buddha’s Hand</span></span></b></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">You may be scared in the first look, but didn’t feel a thing
when you’ll swallowed it; it just tastes like a lemon. The fingered citron is unusually
shaped citron variety whose fruit is segmented into finger-like sections,
resembling a human hand. It is called as such because of its shape, it
resembles a tightened octopus. It is found in China and India. It is used to
flavor fish and eaten raw with spices when mixed with salad. Buddha's hand
fruit is very fragrant and is used predominantly in China, Malaysia and Japan
for perfuming rooms and personal items such as clothing, and in cupboards to
keep out the smell. The Buddha’s Hand fruit can also be eaten often as a zest
or flavouring in desserts, savory dishes and alcoholic beverages or candied as
a sweet. The sliced, dried peel of immature fruits is also prescribed as a tonic
in traditional medicine.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZFxcBfmbC_wsgvnA96YnvPuvx987xXkC2PFOPkOwuIGXVh9I9rQ4W-6tKekw4auN95V3dXoGbQRS5LwwN3VJjVWpOg2qGGgc9B8nJJWbJ5-CpB1odH_19i-glDeM7uUEQQ4MJY6u9kDo/s1600/Buddha%25E2%2580%2599s+Hand.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZFxcBfmbC_wsgvnA96YnvPuvx987xXkC2PFOPkOwuIGXVh9I9rQ4W-6tKekw4auN95V3dXoGbQRS5LwwN3VJjVWpOg2qGGgc9B8nJJWbJ5-CpB1odH_19i-glDeM7uUEQQ4MJY6u9kDo/s640/Buddha%25E2%2580%2599s+Hand.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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</span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">1: Tamarillo</span></span></b></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;">Tamarillo is known as the popular sibling of the regular
tomato we use every day, its paler and burnt in color. The fruit is eaten by
scooping the flesh from a halved fruit, when lightly sugared and cooled; the
flesh is used for a breakfast dish. The fruit is distinctively shaped seeds in
the middle when you slice it in half. Tamarilllo fruit grows in Ecuador, Peru,
Bolivia and Colombia and tastes similar to the Passion fruit. The fruit color
varies from yellow and orange to red and almost purple. Sometimes they have
dark, longitudinal stripes. It is used in making juices and in certain areas of
Bolivia it is used in cooking, particularly to prepare the sauce. In the
industry it is used as a strong preservative because the fruit contains a high
amount of pectin.</span></span><br />
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-35570578554564704202017-02-20T03:20:00.001-08:002017-02-20T03:20:52.471-08:00Pyracantha, An Evergreen Plant Provides Seasonal Interest and Berries<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">“Pyracantha” is the scientific
name of firethorn plants, an evergreen plant that is easy to grow and provides
seasonal interest and berries can handle the simple care of firethorn bush. “Pyracantha”
is a genus of large, thorny evergreen shrubs in the family Rosaceae, with common
names firethorn or pyracantha are native to an area extending from Southwest
Europe east to Southeast Asia. The Pyracantha plant can reach up to 20 feet
tall, having seven species provides white / red flowers, (produce during late
spring and early summer) and orange and yellow berries from late summer and
mature in late autumn. The plant is valuable ornamental plants, decorative
flowers and fruits often very densely borne. </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The “Pyracantha” aesthetic characteristics
in conjunction with their home security qualities make them an alternative to
artificial fences and walls. “Pyracantha” is also good shrubs for a wildlife
garden, providing dense cover for roosting and nesting birds, summer flowers
for bees and a plenty of berries as a food source. “Pyracantha” berries are
mildly poisonous as their seeds contain cyanogenic glycosides, however in some
colder countries “Pyracantha” and the related genus Cotoneaster are valuable
sources of nectar when often the bees have little other forage during the June
Gap. Birds love the berries of the “Pyracantha” and take shelter from wintry
blasts all through the long cold season and spring bloom is just the icing on
the cake.</span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">How to Grow “Pyracantha”</span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It is possible to grow red
berried “Pyracantha” from seed, and then you need to do collect seeds from
plant in the autumn, remove the outer coat of seed and place the seed in your
fridge for 60 days to break the seeds cold dormancy mechanism. Lightly scratch
the seed coat with some very fine sand paper to scuff the hard coat, then you
can sow the seeds as normal. Moreover “Pyracantha” is very easy to propagate from
stem cuttings and this method will produce rooted cuttings until spring, but
cuttings taken after December never seem to grow as well as ones taken between
Sep to Dec. </span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Moreover select a sunny, shady or
a partly sunny location for growing firethorn shrubs. They can also thrive in
dry or moist soils, though damper areas produce bigger plants. Therefore, you
may want to choose a fertile, moist place when planting firethorn. Also consider
the location of your shrub prudently. The plant’s remarkable looks are paired
with prickly leaves that snag and scrape. Plant the shrub away from doorways,
gates and entryways. Hence dig the hole twice as large as the root ball when
planting firethorn and provide consistent water while establishing. Install
firethorn in fall for the healthiest plant and best results. </span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiye82R-1IFESRSpHAwl93wyLutzCqIwiroWj3-EcEKJJ2vKftG9K8AT88I9Uspe_1G-A0sKVwhZCX20j3UYRUnxwUxGGUzegAECvEisPmZttYoS0uh74D9kst0PqcGql26spBZl0Pa-GI/s1600/1200px-Red_pommes_of_Firethorn_%2528Pyracantha%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiye82R-1IFESRSpHAwl93wyLutzCqIwiroWj3-EcEKJJ2vKftG9K8AT88I9Uspe_1G-A0sKVwhZCX20j3UYRUnxwUxGGUzegAECvEisPmZttYoS0uh74D9kst0PqcGql26spBZl0Pa-GI/s640/1200px-Red_pommes_of_Firethorn_%2528Pyracantha%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMS5WMXgCZDkA68MToeG0hpcsUDK9SBPNKdVHeDMudYsCvLAMoK9TPAkm5_9H-KB6f1-ZcFlILrk_YBgPo4DVA6ztI7Cjf2rl-cRMdYsRc0Qf1mCRuvY4wOYLkO4XYGVFid0XSyGQDDNI/s1600/9978850004_ae6c27b5d3_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMS5WMXgCZDkA68MToeG0hpcsUDK9SBPNKdVHeDMudYsCvLAMoK9TPAkm5_9H-KB6f1-ZcFlILrk_YBgPo4DVA6ztI7Cjf2rl-cRMdYsRc0Qf1mCRuvY4wOYLkO4XYGVFid0XSyGQDDNI/s640/9978850004_ae6c27b5d3_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTIPEL1eA561zxfO6JC7uR4BOAPGh0TMitgqYtLJQVtA45pC1ATu7S3NnMrMRaz576ERmG8DDHo2U2VMELH1WoNNcw4QE26cznarF49IIJsbxs4fukFG01l9wk_sO9YO0fmSLpr6vLtVM/s1600/firethorn-pyracantha-berries-1322477493FLz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTIPEL1eA561zxfO6JC7uR4BOAPGh0TMitgqYtLJQVtA45pC1ATu7S3NnMrMRaz576ERmG8DDHo2U2VMELH1WoNNcw4QE26cznarF49IIJsbxs4fukFG01l9wk_sO9YO0fmSLpr6vLtVM/s640/firethorn-pyracantha-berries-1322477493FLz.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYhtM0PNe_eV51Dphx86hd5Qm58K2mzHtKeyPCeG3Xorwpa5qtlWG5JGaXNEH6y2vBpdMEo1BMi6zAk2qTJc0Zkon0K-KiLh9bG7Ev-ao9O-dJrMV3ehDKS5MRVyOavu1b6jQioMWkHBw/s1600/firethorn_large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYhtM0PNe_eV51Dphx86hd5Qm58K2mzHtKeyPCeG3Xorwpa5qtlWG5JGaXNEH6y2vBpdMEo1BMi6zAk2qTJc0Zkon0K-KiLh9bG7Ev-ao9O-dJrMV3ehDKS5MRVyOavu1b6jQioMWkHBw/s640/firethorn_large.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjum4S6PYy8WtqvOvxUPkA8eK95-k8eWlqiEAEDgc_bhc9Zt1hvQSjhHx0NISfYdf4gQTA807xgA_GznlBEIqjX9QKeaWha_F0sMZk28JjyXojHaYsWGGeooixU8K8cwJeovGzMFo2OKoo/s1600/Red_pommes_of_Firethorn_%2528Pyracantha%2529_close-up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjum4S6PYy8WtqvOvxUPkA8eK95-k8eWlqiEAEDgc_bhc9Zt1hvQSjhHx0NISfYdf4gQTA807xgA_GznlBEIqjX9QKeaWha_F0sMZk28JjyXojHaYsWGGeooixU8K8cwJeovGzMFo2OKoo/s640/Red_pommes_of_Firethorn_%2528Pyracantha%2529_close-up.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-14561073621254717632016-05-16T08:23:00.001-07:002016-05-16T08:23:06.240-07:00Tarragon (Artemisia Dracunculus)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtj4L7h4oX4UI8l_mabu6zA2Ox-wEY-fGfsLt64bXARLyZ6mOa4Q3_cynapFcVZJj7vJuOdjmsj0fl-ROXQUSC8IOEWt-StdKFS4AhaQow4mdslSG-Xc7n2wGZQ-SEQehsC3PyatT8HGI/s1600/tarragon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtj4L7h4oX4UI8l_mabu6zA2Ox-wEY-fGfsLt64bXARLyZ6mOa4Q3_cynapFcVZJj7vJuOdjmsj0fl-ROXQUSC8IOEWt-StdKFS4AhaQow4mdslSG-Xc7n2wGZQ-SEQehsC3PyatT8HGI/s320/tarragon.jpg" width="320" /></a>This is hardy perennial becomes a woody shrub, normally about three tall. Tarragon is a species of perennial herb in the sunflower family and it is widespread in the wild across much of Eurasia and North America, and is cultivated for culinary and medicinal purposes in many lands. It is long, slender, dark green leaves have a strong, slightly licorice like flavor that you either enjoy or you don’t. People normally love it in salads, in sauce béarnaise, in vinegars and many other ways too. Ideally like to have a big tarragon plant in the garden so that it can harvest great gobfuls of it in summer, plus one or two potted plants inside for winter. You should buy only plants labeled French Tarragon. The tarragon market has been infiltrated by a Russian variety that, while a vigorous plant, has little or no real tarragon flavor.<br /><br />Well, if you want to grow Tarragon then prefers full sun but will take some shade as well. It grows best in very well drained slightly sandy, alkaline soil. If your soil is heavy and wet, make a raised bed and mix plenty of organic matter into it. In very hot climates the plant may go dormant in summer. In cold climates cut the plants back in fall. If it gets extremely cold where you live, mulch with evergreen boughs or salt hay. Unlike Russian tarragon, French tarragon is not grown from seed. Tarragon is one of the four fines herbs of French cooking, and is mostly suitable for chicken, fish and egg dishes.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip7-tpz8_u35vgpfOPGia9Nwr_pHrYiCf6QlDs0CA2051KVeVHLggo9-A7gKPgSV9KpNNVBA8CFjB4SB2qDtIPn8VD71NQ6zEp7eS86t20vZa7M5x-EoCwKNl4MevNTflsO2-xWZIZgbA/s1600/Tarragon_French.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip7-tpz8_u35vgpfOPGia9Nwr_pHrYiCf6QlDs0CA2051KVeVHLggo9-A7gKPgSV9KpNNVBA8CFjB4SB2qDtIPn8VD71NQ6zEp7eS86t20vZa7M5x-EoCwKNl4MevNTflsO2-xWZIZgbA/s320/Tarragon_French.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />Moreover, you need to purchase a plant or obtain a division or a stem or root cutting from a friend. Dividing your plants every few years will keep them vigorous and also keep the flavor strong. To bring tarragon plants indoors pot up and let sit in freezing weather for a few weeks. Therefore, cut leaves for dying at a time when it is not rainy or humid, by hanging them upside down in a paper bag or in a dark, airy place. Store the leaves in airtight jars. Freeze in plastic bags or containers or as tarragon butter. Make tarragon vinegar, but try to keep a pot of fresh tarragon around all the time if you are a tarragon lover, because it tastes best fresh. </div>
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-38422980217792954432016-04-13T10:53:00.001-07:002016-04-13T10:53:15.536-07:00How to Grow Brussels Sprouts<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Some vegetables, like lettuce and
asparagus, are grown for the thrill of an early harvest of fresh tasting
produce for the table. Brussels sprouts are a late thrill. The ultimate cool
weather crop, their flavor is actually improved by a touch of frost. Hence,
plantings are timed to mature just when days are still warm and sunny but night
frosts are just beginning. The plant is slow growing but makes up for it by
being frost hardy. Picking continues well into fall and even winter. The mature
plant looks like a palm tree with big floppy leaves on top and little round
sprouts growing tightly all up and down the trunk. Each plant yields about a
quart of sprouts; they freeze well.</span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Well, to grow Brussels sprouts in
a sunny, well drained plot. Thus, it takes a long time to mature reserve it a
spot for the whole season. You can interplant small and or early crops between
the rows. If there is a way to shield it from the wind without shielding it
from the sun, do so. The tall mature plants can blow over. </span></div>
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<div style="border-image: none; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH2pLBgZ225Dl2E1BcSqHeYoOldmKIVvFJe7_e-2k4r19qhWpM_YXW7zZKWdoleTFJMbKQr2xys9vnFvHaObr2csPOL1UxWuDaHoiXECKcszX8dqOPnwT-PJvlBNBGJxedybqc48fdsVk/s1600/brussels3_3128487b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH2pLBgZ225Dl2E1BcSqHeYoOldmKIVvFJe7_e-2k4r19qhWpM_YXW7zZKWdoleTFJMbKQr2xys9vnFvHaObr2csPOL1UxWuDaHoiXECKcszX8dqOPnwT-PJvlBNBGJxedybqc48fdsVk/s400/brussels3_3128487b.jpg" width="400" /></a><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Brussels sprouts have the same
soil requirements as broccoli and the other cabbage vegetables, average pH; and
a deep sandy loam, well worked and rich but not overloaded with nitrogen.
Organic matter in the soil will support it to retain the steady moisture the
plant needs. Moreover traditionally Brussels sprouts are grown on a compacted
soil but just a moderate firming with the feet after planting should be
sufficient. Do this even if planting in raised beds. Firm soil doesn’t mean heavy
soil, however; good drainage is very important.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<div style="border-image: none; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">How you time your planting
depends on your climate. In a cold winter area you grow one crop, starting
seeds indoors and setting out the transplants so that they have 90 to 100 days
to grow before hard frosts. By contrast, if you live in a warm climate where
the plants would have trouble getting through the hot summer, you are better
off planting an early spring crop, a late fall crop or both! Sow seeds directly
in the ground in February, water well, and even rush them a bit with some extra
fertilizer, then harvest in May. Sow again in mid-summer, watering religiously.
</span></div>
<br />
<div style="border-image: none; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It might take you a season or two
to work out the right Brussels sprout schedule for your area and for the
varieties you want to grow. But be aware that the plant can take frost, but not
hard freezes. And in a complete frost free area you might not have luck with it
at all. Moreover, plants should be spaced about two feet apart each way if you
are using a grid, or two feet apart in the row, three feet between rows. Dig a
shovelful of compost or a small handful of 5-10 to 5 into each hole, and water
very thoroughly. Make collars to foil cutworms. If you plant seeds, fertilize
the whole row; moisten furrows well, and thin to the above spacing. </span></div>
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<div style="border-image: none; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Mulch will help keep the soil
evenly moist, and an occasional side dressing of liquid fertilizer will be
helpful. Since the plant is tall but shallow rooted, it tends to be a little
tippy, and it is wise to make a soil mound around the plant as it grows,
firming with your foot or the back of a hoe. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Furthermore pest control is the same as for
broccoli diseases are best controlled by crop rotation. </span></div>
<br />
<div style="border-image: none; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Each sprout grows in a leaf axil
and matures from the bottom of the stalk upward so start picking at the bottom.
You should prefer to pick them small, like large marbles not like the golf
balls you get in the market. To make detaching them easier, pick the leaf below
the sprout first, then the sprout, with a twisting motion. </span></div>
<br />
<div style="border-image: none; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">You can extend the season a long
time by piling straw or the loose mulch around the plants as high as possible
and covering plants and mulch with clear plastic. You can even pull them up,
roots and all, and heel them into soil in a dirt bottomed shed or cellar or in
big pots like the once shrubs come in. Or hang them upside down in a cool
place, picking for a few more weeks. Moreover, another trick to hurry things
up, if frost seems to e coming and the sprouts are still tightly closed, is to
pinch off the top of the plant. The bottom ones will start to open faster
though the yield will be diminished to some degree. </span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="border-image: none; clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg5g3LJtWir_RcLtFUjV2NmB3b02mPUEA5P6YG6NzgjfWrFEx-eP1chh_sDbpTHm7wug8If2zBeUozZ41WZM8EfEi6gZo4Mnsiz2IovG1P9inZqfJfg_aBelLSGWJSWKp1oZb1XhgdC7o/s1600/brussels-sprouts-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg5g3LJtWir_RcLtFUjV2NmB3b02mPUEA5P6YG6NzgjfWrFEx-eP1chh_sDbpTHm7wug8If2zBeUozZ41WZM8EfEi6gZo4Mnsiz2IovG1P9inZqfJfg_aBelLSGWJSWKp1oZb1XhgdC7o/s400/brussels-sprouts-3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="border-image: none; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The two most commonly grown
varieties of Brussels sprouts are Jade Cross Hybrid and Long Island Improved.
Both are dwarf and short season roughly 90 days to harvest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Or you can try the early Prince Marvel or
Captain Marvel. Less available but worth trying are the European varieties such
as Valiant or Field star Number one. These have a very long season, though
between 175 to 185 days to harvest so you would need to be able to start early
and grow them well into the fall. But the flavor is said to be worth every bit
of the effort. </span><div style="border-image: none;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></div>
<br />
</div>
</div>
CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-61503237270336595072016-03-18T10:41:00.000-07:002016-03-18T10:41:51.820-07:00Cerbera Odollam The Suicide or Murder Tree<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Cerbera odollam is a
dicotyledonous angiosperm, commonly known as suicide tree. The tree is also
called pong-pong and othalanga and this plant belongs to poisonous Apocynaceae
family. The plant yields a potent poison that has been used for suicide and
murder, which includes the yellow and common oleanders. The seeds are
excessively toxic, containing cerberin as the main active cardenolide and cardiac
glycoside toxin that block the calcium ion channels in heart muscle, causing
disruption of the heartbeat, most habitually fatally. The plant native to
sub-continent mainly endemic to India and other parts of southern Asia growing
preferentially in coastal salt swamps and in marshy areas and grown as a hedge
plant between home compounds and it grows wild along the coast in many parts of
Kerala, India. Therefore, Cerberin is incredibly toxic in relatively low
dosages, habitually killing its victims within a few hours, during which time
they may suffer crippling stomach pain, diarrhea, irregular heart rhythm,
vomiting and sometimes a splitting headache. The plant is growing upwards of 30
feet tall and no plant in the world is responsible for as many deaths by
suicide as the odollam tree.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
A similar species found in
Madagascar named “Cerbera Venenifera”, has a rich history of ordeal poison,
major cause of more than 3000 deaths per year in previous centuries. As this is
powerful toxic plan currently completely ignored by researchers, chemists,
analysts. The Cerbera odollam plant is responsible for about 50% of the plant
poisoning cases and 10% of the total poisoning cases in Kerala, India, used
both for suicide and homicide. There were over 500 cases reported of fatal
Cerbera poisoning between 1989 and 1999 in the Kerala State. It is also likely
that several cases of homicide using the plant go unnoticed in countries where
it does not grow naturally.</div>
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Researchers have found its fruits
are used for manufacturing bio insecticides and deodorants and using the seeds
as a feedstock in the production of biodiesel. Cerbera odollam is having close
resemblance to oleander; another highly toxic plant from the same family yields
milky, white latex. The tree unripe fruits looks like small mango with a green
fibrous shell enclosing an ovoid kernel measuring about 2cm x 1.5cm with two
cross-matching white fleshy halves. Therefore, with the change of weather, on
exposure to air, the white kernel turns violet, then dark grey, and ultimately
brown, or black. French researchers performed a study in 2004 that indicated
that the suicide tree may be responsible for more deaths than even the
incredible amount already known. It is very quick and more painless than other
available methods of suicide. </div>
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-71827194340681630462015-11-15T05:31:00.002-08:002015-11-15T05:31:50.934-08:00How to Grow Turnips and Rutabagas <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIeKpm-rlbVpk7pJQAAfH8NZIAgoryZ2QNCleGkmEZWpqEa5dzQjWDS4dZRUQJ2c8Mv2VX1Ua1rRtfoEbiPUb1NApO3y8auk98MHPeK6gLojzM_Y_dMlUJBN_qPQ4b7YJViYd1oDz4KFg/s1600/turnip-vs-rutabaga.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIeKpm-rlbVpk7pJQAAfH8NZIAgoryZ2QNCleGkmEZWpqEa5dzQjWDS4dZRUQJ2c8Mv2VX1Ua1rRtfoEbiPUb1NApO3y8auk98MHPeK6gLojzM_Y_dMlUJBN_qPQ4b7YJViYd1oDz4KFg/s400/turnip-vs-rutabaga.jpg" width="400" /></a>There is nothing in the garden quite as unromantic as a turnip, unless perhaps it’s a rutabaga. It is strongly flavored, good storing root vegetables; they are rarely invited to sit at formal tables. But they are good earthy peasant food. Most people insist on a bowl of buttered mashed turnips at thanks giving dinner, and they are also good cut up in soups.</div>
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Turnips are small, usually white, and have no necks rather like the children in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof. The leaves, which are green and fuzzy, sprout right from the root itself and are an excellent, nutritious cooked green especially tasty with pieces of ham, slab bacon added. Some turnips have yellow flesh, others have white. Some varieties are grown for the root, others for the greens, still others for both. Rutabagas, sometimes called “Swede Turnips”, are five or six inches in diameter and purplish in color. They look somewhat like a rounded sweet potato. </div>
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The flesh inside is usually yellow. There is a neck or crown one or two inches long, from which sprout smooth bluish leaves. Once got through a rather lean winter on rutabaga crop; the tubers coated with paraffin and stored in the basement, lasted all winter long. Both turnips and rutabagas are cool weather crops that get tough and woody and go to seed in hot weather. Which to grow? If you want an early spring crop, or want to grow cooking greens, choose turnips. For a fall crop that will keep a while in the ground and for a long time in your cellar, rutabagas are a better choice, and to some palates they are sweeter tasting. But turnips are twice as fast to mature almost 35 to 60 days compared to rutabagas 90.</div>
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<strong>Select a Site</strong></div>
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A sunny location is appreciated, but not essential. A 4 * 4 foot bed will give you up to twenty five rutabagas and up to thirty turnips. Since both members are belongs to cabbage family, try not to plant either where other cabbage vegetables have recently grown.</div>
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<strong>Select a Soil</strong></div>
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Soil texture is important for both turnips and rutabagas, as it is for any root crop. Make the soil loose, well drained, and well ventilated by incorporating plenty or organic matter into it. Moreover you should use rotted manure, compost or commercial bagged humus, and dig it in to a depth of at least seven inches, especially for rutabagas, whose tubers are larger and whose root systems go down several feet. Therefore, both like a neutral pH but will tolerate a pH as low as 5.5. Moreover lime the soil if it is more acid than pH 5.5. Turnips are not very heavy feeders as vegetables go; soil of moderate fertility is adequate with one exception. If you are trying to grow a spring turnip crop before hot weather comes, you do want fast growth. So give spring turnips a good dose of 5-10-10. Rutabagas like slightly richer soil than fall turnips. And make sure your soil has adequate phosphorus for foot development, no matter when you plant.</div>
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<strong>How to Plant</strong></div>
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Well, spring turnips should be planted as early in spring as you can work the soil late winter in warm climates or set into pre dug furrows even earlier than that, for fall turnips, wait until mid or late summer in the north, and even until late fall and winter in the south. Well, you can plant rutabagas in spring when the ground has warmed or early summer in the north, allowing three months before the first average frost. You can plant them in mid or late summer farther south; to be sure the tubers are forming in cooler weather. Seeds are sown directly in the garden. They are very tiny, but try to get them about an inch apart. They should be sown ¼ inch deep in spring, but ½ inch deep in warm weather, in well moistened furrows. The seeds germinate quickly but do not like to come up through a crust, so just sift some compost or fine soil over the furrow and then keep it moistened.</div>
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Rows should be at least 15 inches apart for turnips, and at least 18 inches for rutabagas. When the seedlings are five to six inches high, thin them to three to four inches apart, eating the thinning as greens (young turnip leaves are even good raw in salads). Thinning is not as important if you are growing just for green; but tubers of both turnips and rutabagas need ample room to reach full size undisturbed, so be sure to thin if you want to harvest those. Rutabagas should be thinned to at least six to eight inches apart to permit good root development.</div>
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<strong>Growing</strong></div>
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Both crops need careful but frequent cultivation to keep the weeds down. Mulch will help, but be sure to sprinkle some lime on the soil first if the mulch is an acid one like bark. Turnips appreciate a good, deep soaking with water once a week if the weather is dry. Rutabagas are drought tolerant within reason, since the roots go so deep. Top dressing should not be necessary with either turnips or rutabagas as long as your soil is moderately fertile, except perhaps with spring turnips. But if you do top dress, use a fertilizer that is high in phosphorus, and once that is high in phosphorus, and one that is high in nitrogen only if you are growing turnip greens not tubers.</div>
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<strong>Pests and Diseases</strong></div>
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For the most part the same ills that beset cabbage and other members of that family afflict rutabagas and turnips. Control root maggots by dusting the soil with wood ashes, and if necessary by covering seedlings with cheesecloth to keep off flies that lay the eggs from which the maggots hatch. Small holes in the leaves indicate flea beetles, which can be hosed off or dusted with rotenone. Treat aphids the same way. Club-root and black-root are occasional problems. Rutabagas can rot in the center from insufficient boron in the soil, an affliction known as brown heart. If this condition appears, dig a little Borax into the soil and soak it thoroughly with a hose.</div>
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<strong>Harvest</strong></div>
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Dig turnips when they are two or three inches in diameter. A few light frosts may improve the flavor of both tops and roots, but do not let them freeze solid. Cut off the tops and store the tubers in a cool place, just above 32 degree. Harvest rutabagas while the ground is still soft enough to dig, and cut off the tops and any long roots projecting from the tuber. Store them the same way you do turnips burying them in a container of barely moist sand will help keep them from drying out. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfp-G8gmm1PdN4zhHLrbBkwIt7n5Nx4k3MjhzaRVQ0TEmIIhyphenhyphenLbmzXtknDKAMgukWvksTkLC2pGTNQ2BbBk9yulbU4GcrQYrYKQKnMt6t3u9svXT7IiDfYNbp5qDStnUSDibCkwY2cgY/s1600/turnip-rutabaga.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfp-G8gmm1PdN4zhHLrbBkwIt7n5Nx4k3MjhzaRVQ0TEmIIhyphenhyphenLbmzXtknDKAMgukWvksTkLC2pGTNQ2BbBk9yulbU4GcrQYrYKQKnMt6t3u9svXT7IiDfYNbp5qDStnUSDibCkwY2cgY/s400/turnip-rutabaga.jpg" width="400" /></a>Dipping them in paraffin will also prolong their keeping time, as it will keep moisture from escaping from the tubers. Just scrape off the paraffin along with the skins when you peel them for cooking. Turnip greens can be eaten as early as you do your thinning and as late as a month or so after planting. If you are growing a root turnip crop, you can still harvest a few outer leaves from the plants occasionally to make a meal of greens. But do not cut off all the greens if you want to harvest the tubers at least not until it is time to dig the tubers up.</div>
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<strong>Varieties</strong></div>
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For early turnip crops, grow all seasons, while flat, shogoin, Tokyo Cross, just right, Tokyo Market, Jersey Lily or Extra Early White. For greens grow Seven Top, Shogoin, all top hybrids or Just right, Purple Top White Globe and Aberdeen yellow are good for fall and for storage. The standard rutabaga varieties are American purple Top, Laurentian, Long Island Improved, and Macomber, a white fleshed type that keeps very well.</div>
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CPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09973285351396642663noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4133835392236442674.post-3059718861389185842015-11-01T01:09:00.000-07:002015-11-01T01:09:15.926-07:00How to Grow Parsnip, Salsify and Scorzonera<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Parsnips take some patience. The seeds are slow sprouting, the plants are slow growing, and he whole crop can take a good year to produce if you do it right. But they’re easy, pest free and well worth the wait. They look like white carrots but are fatter on top and skinnier on the bottom Parsnips texture is somewhat potato like, and they are rather caloric as vegetables go, especially since they absolutely demand, in my mind, to be smothered in large amounts of butter. They are also sweet and flavorful in soups and stews.</div>
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Therefore, parsnips are biennials that would send up flower stalks and bloom the second season if you let them, but you don’t. You plant them very early in the spring, pick some in fall after a few freezes, and winter them in the ground for an early spring harvest. Parsnips actually turn sweeter after they have been frozen a few times, since the starch in them turns to sugar. So while they may look ready to dig, it is best to leave them in the ground for a while. Please be in mind that patience with parsnips pays off.</div>
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Salsify, or oyster plant, is often grouped with parsnip because it is closely related and is grown the same way. It looks like a slightly shorter, thinner parsnip. “Black Salsify” or “Scorzonera” is not even closely related to either, though it looks like black skinned, white fleshed salsify. It is grown like salsify, and it is convenient to put in next to parsnips and salsify in books and seed catalogs as well as in gardens. All three are more popular in cool climate than hot ones, but you can grow them in the south by planting them in early summer and wintering them in the ground.</div>
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<strong>Selecting a Site and Soil</strong></div>
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Well, the site and space requirements for parsnips salsify and Scorzonera are the same as far carrots, except that they will occupy their plot for the whole growing season. Moreover, the soil should very deep, moderately rich, and not too sandy, heavy or stony exactly what you would prepare for carrots except that you should pulverize the soil a bit deeper. Obstacles will cause distortion of the roots. Very sandy soil will encourage large, useless side roots to form, and heavy clay soil will be hard for the roots to penetrate. To correct either condition or plenty of organic matter until the texture is that a good average loam. Therefore, if you still suspect the soil is too heavy, make a large, parsnip shaped planting hole for each plant by plunging a crowbar into the soil, wagging it back and forth, and filling the hole with a a more hospitable material such as aged compost or light rich soil. Moreover, avoid too fresh manure or soil that it too rich in nitrogen, which will cause branching of the roots.</div>
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Being tap-rooted, these vegetables will accept slightly dry soils better than most, since they will dig down for water beneath the surface; they will also tolerate slightly poorer soils. But do not ask the impossible from them. What you want to give them is a moderate but consistent supply of water and nutrients, for a long, slow, steady season of growth. The pH can be anywhere in between 6-8.</div>
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<strong>How to Planting</strong></div>
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Well, if you want to grow, and then sow the seeds outdoors in the garden as soon as the ground can be worked, usually early April where live. If you wait too long, the plants may not get the full growth they need before cool weather slows the growth down in fall. Parsnips and salsify take about three and a half months to mature, and Scorzonera takes four. It is recommended planting by the traditional row method to make mulching easier. Make the rows 12 to 18 inches apart. You can make this crop better pay for its year long stay in one spot by inter-planting the rows with an early crop such as spinach or lettuce. Moreover, you need to use fresh new seeds, and soak them overnight in warm water to shorten the two to three week germination period. They can be mixed with sand or coffee grounds for easier planting. Hence, make a furrow and moisten it well, then sow seed thickly because germination of parsnip and salsify is notoriously poor, even with brand new seed this is normally not a problem with Scorzonera. Also cover the seeds with a half inch of very light, fine soil, or even vermiculite, because they will balk and a surface crust just as badly as carrots will. Pat the soil lightly and water it well with a fine spray.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1uNwo7TA2oP-C5Z3nRiS5c-r0LpmMzT0lVJJGSIEURUZZ6FQ2_ydbpMOalch5_pVtS1HgqB3_7IDoKrqbdaz_OLZCXFNKMjdXYU1Qy0s28MT0fYLtpaRPujMnYP-dfgu3qrV_BfBahUA/s1600/IMG_3765.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1uNwo7TA2oP-C5Z3nRiS5c-r0LpmMzT0lVJJGSIEURUZZ6FQ2_ydbpMOalch5_pVtS1HgqB3_7IDoKrqbdaz_OLZCXFNKMjdXYU1Qy0s28MT0fYLtpaRPujMnYP-dfgu3qrV_BfBahUA/s400/IMG_3765.JPG" width="400" /></a>Keep the seed bed moist during the germination period. If you are like me, you can very easily forget to do this, but there are some tricks to make up for lack of vigilance. Put wet burlap, sphagnum moss or even wooden boards over the seeds till they come up. An even better trick is to plant radish seed mixed in with the parsnip seed. When the fast sprouting radish seedlings break the surface, they will also shade the spindly young parsnip seedlings, keeping them from drying out. By the time you’re pulling the radishes, the parsnips should be tall enough to thin four inches tall or more. If you have made crowbar holes, thin each cluster to one plant, snipping the extras with scissors.</div>
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<strong>How to Growing</strong></div>
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Well, while they are growing, the plants cannot take much completion, so cultivate and weed often unless you have good thick mulch that is keeping the weeds at bay. But make sure the soil does not get too dry, especially if the bed is not mulched. Therefore, unless you have used pretty rich soil, or a slow release fertilizer, an occasional light top dressing during the summer will keep growth going, but do not overdo it.</div>
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<strong>Pets and Diseases</strong></div>
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Neither insects nor diseases should be a problem. You might get celery leaf miners that tunnel into the leaves; if so scrape off the little blisters you will find on them. If your plants get canker, making the roots rot, combat it next time by planting a later crop, using no manure and checking the pH. If your soil is very acid, raise it to pH 7.0 by adding the appropriate amount of lime.</div>
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<strong>Harvest</strong></div>
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If you’re harvesting in fall, then dig the roots and store them as you would carrots. For overwintering in the ground, pile on at least a foot of leaves or straw or some other loose mulch, as soon as the ground threatens to freeze in earnest. During winter thaws you can pull a few up, but as soon as the ground has really softened in spring, harvest all of them. Do not let the tops start growing again or you will ruin the roots flavor.</div>
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<strong>Varieties</strong></div>
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Shopping for parsnip varieties is easy. The best variety is “Harris Model” “Hollow Crown” a faster crop, is also good. The standard salsify is “sandwich Island Mammoth”. The one name Scorzonera variety I have seen so far is “Gigantea”.</div>
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